George Bell Boulder, CO   5.10a

[Hide Comment] I should point out that the first pitch as I describe it is often split into two pitches (this is the way Rossiter describes it). Eldo hard men will also lead this route with nothing bigger than a #3 Camalot. If you are solid at this grade and willing to run it out a bit you really don't have to bring any large gear. Aug 8, 2001

Bryson Slothower Portland, OR

[Hide Comment] Starting with Slimy Spoon to the Lower Ramp and then the Grand Giraffe to the Upper then Body Tremors to Smoke and Mirrors makes for a great yet moderate link up with a huge variety of climbing from juggy face to fingers to offwidth. Nov 19, 2001

Bryson Slothower Portland, OR

[Hide Comment] I think a #3 Camalot is plenty for the crux of this route, the pin offers good pro and then there is a good spot for the #3 about six or seven feet above. If I had brought a #4, I don't think I would have even used it and I suck at offwidth... Jan 13, 2002

Bryson Slothower Portland, OR

[Hide Comment] I think I'm comfortable doing this pitch without any offwidth gear because I place a #3 Ballnut where you exit the crack and move onto the face. I've fallen out of the crux a few times (onto the pin) and still don't ever take a #4 Camalot when I do this route knowing full well that I will probably fall off of it again. It is all a matter of person comfort level. A #4 or #4.5 would definitely make it feel safer, I wonder what Layton Kor used on the FA in 1960????? Jun 22, 2002

Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] The smallest Alien (.33) will also fit perfectly in the crack at the roof in lieu of the #3 Ballnut listed in a previous comment. Otherwise, it is nice to have a #4 and #4.5 Camalot. Feb 1, 2003

Rich Farnham Nederland, CO

[Hide Comment] I would not head up to onsight this pitch without a #5 Camalot unless you are very comfortable in offwidths. It is conceivable that once you know the moves, rests, etc. you could do it comfortably without it, but (for me anyway) it is a daunting and awkward climb and having the #5 to essentially keep you on TR is reassuring. The pin comes just before the crux OW moves, and does seem solid. The #4 goes in a little below it, just in case. A few moves/grunts into the crux you can get the #5 in over your head and bump it along with you all the way to the bulge 20' above. If you are tall like me, you can also get a #4.5 deep in the crack a few feet above the pin, as you move into the crux. All told, singles of the #4, #4.5, and #5 make this pitch as comfortable as OW can be. This route is fantastic and should not be avoided because of the OW. The lower pitches are great, the exposure is thrilling, and the OW is not that bad (I actually really enjoyed it). Apr 21, 2003

Cassidy Hill

[Hide Comment] I recommend placing some gear right away, then run it out of you like. Or, place a big cam, whatever. Just don't trust that pin, it is old and awkwardly driven. No telling how good it is. Beautiful route. Have Fun! May 12, 2003

Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] Bring one #4.5 Camalot, or like size. You don't need anything else other than a #4.5 for the crux to back up the pin. Nothing bigger than a Tech Friend #3.5 or Camalot #3 is needed for the other pitches. Double TCUs and stoppers are ideal. Be wary of the expando flake below the first pins on pitch 2. This is a seriously huge chunk of rock fixing to go -- tread lightly through this section! Jun 27, 2003

Scott Conner Lyons, CO

[Hide Comment] Great route. I thought the best pitch was actually the 5.9 left angling crack pitch (that breaks off from the Rover dihedral), though it's all excellent. The upper pitches are fun and also make a good alternative to upper-Ruper if crowded. The crux was desperate for me and I was glad to have a #4 and #4.5. No Grand Giraffe onsight for me... Dang-it! Jul 16, 2003

David Conlin   5.10a

[Hide Comment] We did Grand Giraffe's first three pitches to Body Tremors to Smoke and Mirrors. This combo makes for a stellar day. P1. 5.9 - There is a parallel crack just to the left of the upper part of this crack. I stayed in the crack on the right, but using the other crack might make it a bit easier. I really enjoyed this pitch. P2. 5.6 (5.4 according to Rossiter) - this must've been the toughest 5.4 I've ever done. More like 5.6. P3. 5.10a - my partner, Mike Flanagan, led this with a #3 & #3.5 Camalot. He fit the #3.5 below the pin for a decent (although not ideal) placement. He used the #3 higher in the constriction. It did not walk (though could have). Look for high footholds out on the right face as you move through the crux. At the roof, a blue Alien fits decently. P4. 5.8s - Body Tremors. P5. 5.10a - Smoke & Mirrors. May 23, 2004

David Conlin   5.10a

[Hide Comment] PS: This is a good choice in the morning in the summer. We were in the shade nearly the whole day. May 23, 2004

Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] Not bad, but not my favorite Eldo route. Even though I am a Vedauwoo offwidth fan I would recommend saving this one for later. If you want the beta on pro, the above comments are terrific! Jun 12, 2004

L. Hamilton   5.8+

[Hide Comment] The 1970s gear beta for the crux pitch, back when this was a classic 5.8, was to trust the pin (and don't fall) for the first crux, then bring along one #10 hex for the upper part -- where it slotted in place "like a key in a lock." No worries about that walking out. Nov 20, 2004

Anonymous Coward

[Hide Comment] Has anyone used BigBro's to protect the OW crack? If so, what size? I am guessing they may get in the way while climbing, or the crack might flare too much. They would be easier to carry than large cams. Apr 18, 2005

Jamie Logan

[Hide Comment] In 1968, the Grand Giraffe was rated 5.8, and I climbed it with Pat Ament and Royal Robbins. Royal announced that we were going to take no pitons and use only chockstones that he had brought back from England. This was to be the first time nuts were used in Colorado. After thinking over the fixed pins already in place, I thought it would be OK and joined them. We never protected the 5.8 offwidth at that time, and it turned out to be Royal's lead. He stopped in the middle of the crux, turned around and looked down at us, and said " this is the hardest 5.8 I have ever done." He then turned back around and finished with no problem. I believe the gear we had were mostly Pecks and Moacs as stoppers, and hexes were far in the future. Jul 20, 2005

BWpete   5.10a

[Hide Comment] In reply to the coward. Yes you can use a bigbro, I think it was the blue, but it may have been green. I didn't lead it, or cleanly second it, (it is "harder than Pete") but in desperation and humiliation, I grabbed the big bro and used it like a big old ladder handle. It worked well for then, and now that I am a little better I will say that it is actually good to use a big bro if you are going to bring someone that isn't good with offwidth. What the leader of my party did was had a big bro, and then the old number 5 BD cam, and bumped them up so he didn't have to carry too many pieces. It worked well, and you can protect the whole OW with 2 pieces if you bump them. Aug 22, 2005

Danny   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Did this the other day and thought it was great. I approached this thinking that the OW was going to a desperate grunt, but found it to be quite good. One thing to keep in mind with the GG is that the crux is very short. Overall, a stellar climb and well worth doing. I would recommend a #4.5 Camalot instead of a #5 and a #3 works well five feet or so below the roof. As for it not being popular (as described in the intro), I started this at 11:30 am and was the third group on it. Sep 26, 2005

Shane Zentner Colorado

[Hide Comment] I would bring more than a #3 Camalot for the crux pitch if you're a 5.10 leader such as myself. I backed up the piton with a #4 Camalot (old one) which was a hindrance because I had trouble squeezing into the 'crack'. I managed, though, probably because of my guttoral screams while getting through the crux. May 15, 2006

Mike fenice Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Anyone that just brings a #3 Camalot is on the wrong route or crazy! After you clip the pin you can place a #5 Camalot that works well but a bit tipped-out. You can walk this up the entire route to the top. A big green Friend would also work well here. May 30, 2006

XOG

[Hide Comment] Don't overlook upper Grand Giraffe above the Upper Ramp. The climbing is much easier but very fun, and the routefinding is complicated with funky gear. The rock is solid although covered with lichen. Also, on the last pitch it is really nice to climb up and right out of the belay in a dihedral that is much harder looking than it is, instead of up and left according to the route description. Above is one of the nicest easy pitches on hueco jugs imaginable. Sep 4, 2006

Ian Wolfe Fayetteville, NC   5.10a

[Hide Comment] I felt the 5.9 pitch was harder than the offwidth pitch. The offwidth looks intimidating from below, but it is really only hard for the first couple feet off the belay. I was expecting something longer and more sustained. Oct 16, 2006

Dan Mottinger

[Hide Comment] Was able to link the first two pitches described here (First three guidebook pitches) into one, stopping just shy of the normal belay ledge. This was with a 70 m rope, which is long enough to make it to the regular belay (a 60 m might work?). Plenty of runners help, although I ended up with a fair amount of rope drag on easier climbing. Mar 23, 2007

Meredith DB Boulder, CO   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Great route, and easier than I was expecting. I did much more chimneying than using pure offwidth technique. Gear beta: a green Big Bro fits well in the wide section. Nov 10, 2007

Brian Weinstein   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Jim, Thanks for sharing some important history about this route. That is part of what makes this site so unique. It's essential to know this kind of history to grasp the roots and spirit of climbing. Feb 25, 2008

YDPL8S Santa Monica, Ca.   5.10a

[Hide Comment] This was one of my first 5.9s (in the 70s), boy did I feel like a hack, OW kicked my ass. At the time it felt like my first Eldo adventure. Feb 28, 2008

Guy H. Fort Collins CO

[Hide Comment] A #3 Big Bro will protect the crux and a #2 Big Bro will protect the moves through the bulge. The best metal courage would be a #6 FR or C4. This is a spectacular wide line, which is really all you knee to know about the crux moves. Mar 2, 2008

Eric Goltz Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] I brought only a #4 for the OW, and I still had it on my harness when I finished the pitch! You're better off bringing a #6 cam and walking that up; since a #4 Camalot doesn't fit anywhere above the (good) pin. Great route! Oct 20, 2008

Sergio P Idaho Springs, CO   5.10a

[Hide Comment] An old style #5 Camalot works great, and a C4 #5 works ok. Apr 12, 2009

John Peterson

[Hide Comment] The absolute best pro is the old Chouinard 6" tube chock. The taper matches the crack exactly. Apr 12, 2009

EMT	[Hide Comment] You can get good C3/Alien placements out left at the little roof at the end of the OW pitch. May 1, 2009

Theo Colameco Boulder,Co.

[Hide Comment] Yeah, I am not a good climber but a happy and grateful climber! I was soo happy to be off to climb GG!! The offwidth section I followed!! [Like most pitches I climb!!] This was verry hard and I'm worse on sport 10s then classic 10s, I think!! The entire route was great!! The offwidth does demand respect!! Unless 5.12 face is a good redpoint for you!! Still a worthy and legendary route!! Thank you climbing Patriarch Jim Logan for your comments!!! They inspired me to say this precautionary tale! Aspiring Eldo 5.10 leaders this is 5.10!! Sep 10, 2009

Will Spaller Ogden, UT

[Hide Comment] One of the sweetest link-ups I've done to date: Grand Giraffe to Italian Arete to Smoke and Mirrors. Just plain AWESOME. Nov 27, 2010

WadeM Auburn, Ca

[Hide Comment] Did the route a couple of days ago and here's what I think: Combine first two pitches, kinda awkward but not the crux of the route for me. I only ended using one #5 on the width pitch, you can just keep bumping it up and be fine. Walk far enough back and belay off the tree. So bring a #5 and a long sling and go! Nice to finish with Italian Arete. May 3, 2012

Dan Hickstein

[Hide Comment] That offwidth pitch is tough! I brought a number 5 C4, and I wish that I had brought two. I placed one at the low crux, and then I had to climb back down and get it so that I could use it again to place it for the upper crux. The upper crux is definitely easier, but it's fairly run out above a good #3 Camalot that I placed way back in the crack. There is a fixed knifeblade to protect the lower crux and a yellow Alien in an expanding flake that kinda protects the upper crux, but I was happy to have the #5 C4 to back up these dubious pieces. I can see how people can do this pitch with only #3s, but I would recommend two large cams unless you're feeling especially lucky. Apr 7, 2013

Rodger Raubach Billings, MT   5.10a PG13

[Hide Comment] The FFA was done by John Thomas (physics student at UW in Laramie.), sometime around 1962-63. I was still in the Army when it was done. When I climbed it ~ 1966, it still had an awesome reputation for being the ultimate "hard man" climb in Eldorado Canyon. Apr 18, 2013

Sagar Gondalia Golden   5.10a

[Hide Comment] The cam has been cleaned. It was an old, rigid stem #2.5 Friend. Jun 9, 2014

Mark Oveson Provo, UT

[Hide Comment] P1 is 5.9 for more than a short section. Felt pretty sustained to me, with at least two and maybe three distinct 5.9 cruxes. P3 is...hard. P4 and P5 can be run together in a very long pitch. If you are comfortable simulclimbing a bit, it works with a 60 meter rope. We stayed left and ascended a chimney-like feature with a few old funky pitons. This is a wonderful pitch! A bucket-fest dessert after eating your offwidth veggies. Jul 24, 2014

pfwein Weinberg Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] My gear/climbing beta for OW: #5 C4, pin (i.e, pin below crux, not lower pin right above or part of belay anchor), bump #5 above pin, do crux move and climb a ways, insert #6, bump #6 a time or two to final position at roof. Can supplement with blue and yellow Metolius Mastercam sizes in flake below the roof. Apparently there is red Alien size to L of roof, but I didn't see it. Edit Oct. 1, 23: this time I clipped pin, then #5, then little gear in flake beneath roof (.2, .3 C4 size), then #6 in crack at roof. #6 was tight but removable with careful placement, a 5 may be better there. Oct 6, 2014

goingUp over here

[Hide Comment] Not the most experienced or confident offwidth climber, so I took a #4, #5, and #6 (Camalots), the #4 I placed instead of clipping the old pin, shuffled up a bit, placed the #6, then 3 feet higher placed the #5 in the back of the crack, and back cleaned the #6 (thinking I might need it again), I placed it another few feet above the 5 just because.... This sewed up the offwidth. If I were to go back, I would just take the #4 and the #5, or the #4 and the #6 (just below the bulge). Either protects very, very, very well. Balls of steel to climb this on old school, passive pro! May 16, 2015

michalm

[Hide Comment] Larry Hamilton's gear beta works well. Led this last year with a #10 hex and a couple quickdraws. I can't imagine a #3 C4 fitting better than the hex. I may have used a grey TCU at the top as a directional to keep the rope out of the crack. Feb 1, 2016

Bob Smith III Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] I got my ass kicked on the off-width. I linked pitches 1-2 which was a ton of fun! There is a fixed piece of gear on pitch 1, so I think I only placed 2 of my own cams. Pitch 2 was a little tricky, and I found myself wandering between two crack systems to stay well-protected. These two pitches were so much fun and set me up to believe I was going to cruise the whole route. My friend led pitch 3, and I was set up at the base of the off-width. Getting through the first 10-15 feet was the hardest for me. I clipped the shitty pin and placed a #5 far back in the crack to back it up, then decided to try to get the #5 back and got all jammed up. I was trying to smear feet on the face, and I have horrible off-width technique. I ended up taking twice before asking my partner if he wanted to give it a go. In the end, my partner finished up the pitch, and I pulled on gear and limped my way to the top. I was discouraged, and we ended up going left at the top of the ramp and rapping. I have climbed a bunch of 5.10-5.11 pitches in Eldo and this one shut me down the hardest. As soon as I was on the ground, I knew I would be back with a little more skill and technique. Don't be discouraged. It is safe (definitely with a #5), but be ready for some full on fun! Feb 12, 2016

Todd R Vansion, CO / WY

[Hide Comment] Finally got on this a couple weeks ago. Pretty sweet. Honestly, if you climb OWs, this is probably a 8+/9-. It was significantly easier than I expected. Hammer (8+) is quite a bit harder than this guy, I think. Note on gear: I led this with 1 #4. I brought up a 2nd one, but you can't place it anywhere above the crux. A #5 is definitely necessary if you want pro higher up (I kind of wish I had one). If you're solid on OW, the single #4 is probably enough if you don't mind running it out through some easier stuff. Mar 21, 2016

Kat A Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] 60' pitch per guidebook; we placed 3 pieces of pro - old pin, #5 and #6 C4 Camalot. The small gear on the face is higher up and on the left, past the crux and the second hard section - might not be obvious on lead. Mar 19, 2017

Dennis Collinson San Francisco, California

[Hide Comment] Gear sandbag alert: I wish I had brought 2 5s + 6s with me, dealing with back cleaning and bumping was difficult, because they had to be placed way in the back. Big ups to anyone who did this back in the day without big gear, but holy shit that was scary, and I wish I brought more with me. A lot of the placements were in between a modern BD 5/6. There's apparently a fixed pin I missed in the crux, which would maybe make me want to have less gear, but I'm still gonna double up next time I do it. Dec 10, 2017

Owen Murphy Fort Collins, CO   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Was able to comfortably climb the o/w pitch walking a single #5 no problem. A #4 wasn't necessary, because the current pin in there is bombproof. It's over quickly, just keep moving.... Feb 1, 2018

Scott Dewey Golden, Co

[Hide Comment] Climbed The Giraffe yesterday. Rapped down feeling happy and victorious until I returned to the base of the climb. Some terrible human being stole my Osprey pack that had 3 cams in it. Have been climbing Eldo for a while and have never experienced cruelty of this nature. Climbers, beware! Mar 12, 2018

Danny Gilbert Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] Jamie Logan's comment from 2005 is the raddest comment I've seen on MP. Stuff like that should be enshrined in the route description. Aug 22, 2018

George Bell Boulder, CO   5.10a

[Hide Comment] Thanks for the suggestion, Danny. I have enshrined it! Aug 22, 2018

Ryan Beard Golden, CO

[Hide Comment] Great route. The flakes on P1 below the pins are a little suspect. I’d be careful yarding on those. Nov 22, 2018

Jeff Klassen Denver, CO

[Hide Comment] GREAT route. Found I needed only a #3 (normal placement) and a #5 (bumped for most of the pitch) for the crux pitch. I was nearly always on toprope bumping the #5. Also, those 2 upper pitches are very high quality, exposed, and well worth doing. Aug 15, 2019

Dan Raymond Longmont, CO

[Hide Comment] I bought a #5 to do this route, and I placed it on every pitch. However, I don't think it was really enough for the offwidth pitch 3. There are a lot of beta comments saying you can bump a single #5 up the whole pitch. I placed it above the piton at the crux, but the crack was too wide to move it up from there. I had to climb above it and reach below my feet to retrieve it (which wasn't easy!), and I still had trouble reaching a good spot to place it again above my head. I didn't find any other gear placements smaller than the #5 until I placed a so-so #0.2 X4 near the top of the pitch. I left the #5 behind there, so the #0.2 was just a backup. Jun 20, 2020

Kaz Hatfield Firestone, CO   5.9+

[Hide Comment] Hard. First offwidth. No onsight. I’d rate it 10a, but after I followed and figured out the beta, it’s still hard but not as hard. Not the biggest fan of offwidths, but I’d come back to this! If you’ve got a #8, I’d bring that :P Nov 16, 2020

June H Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] The offwidth section doesn't lend itself to true offwidth climbing. In fact, exiting the crux involves leaving the entire crack, but it's probably as close to offwidth climbing as you can get in Eldo. I had to bump the #5 a long ways, and if this was at my limit, I would have preferred to also have a #6 with me, which wouldn't be a big deal since the earlier routes are easier or of equal difficulty. Mar 12, 2021

Jesse B Colorado

[Hide Comment] Led offwidth with 3 cams: #4, #5, and #6. Clipped the pin and bumped the #5 up to the bulge. From a rest stance below the bulge, placed the #6 so that I didn't just have a single cam in the last 20+ feet. Immediately past the bulge, I placed the #4 just so I had another piece after the bulge. No additional gear needed after that because the climbing is really just scrambling beyond the bulge. We went and did Italian Arete rather than the lower GG finishing pitches. Jun 27, 2021

Nathan M Boulder, CO

[Hide Comment] I took c4 4, 5, 6 and was psyched to have the 5 + 6. Didn’t place the 4. The crux for me was the .9 L-leaning P2, although the OW was def a grunt. IMO, no move on this is as hard as P1 Chockstone or Xanadu, for comparison, although this is very different in character from those climbs. So fun. Aug 1, 2021

Leo Wu Longmont, CO

[Hide Comment] Just my two cents on the gear beta: if you are not very solid on offwidth, you probably want to have a #6. I am not sure that's real offwidth move at the crux, but it was definitely not face climbing. I only had a #5, and it looks like even if I pulled the crux move, there would be a long run out to the next piece. I eventually bailed and climbed the 10c on the right not the Arts Spar roof), which feels easier for the grade. Jan 1, 2022