First off, I will buy a beer for whomever it was who unburied the start of this classic. At the tropics walk or climb up the ridge well past the initial roofs, aretes to the first main switchback in the 'new' road. Start either on two well chalked flat crimps, and move 2-3 moves to the left to a left downsloping jug -- but many, myself included often start here. Pop left to another jug, then sequentially move through several crimps, heel hooking, to reach the low jugs at the corner. Find one of the most amazing rest ever (it's been in the mags). Now climb out to the prow, around and to the large jug to the left. Match many appendages here. Now climb left on the rail. At it's end 'slap the monkey.' That would be that distant jug above the last of the rail, you silly. Find the key rest here before continuing left, low below the final roof, where one climbs up the left side via laybacks and finally the finishing jugs. Heard the grade at V7, but only seems a bit harder than Punk (V5) to me, shrug?

A spot and pad are nice as one's back is exposed often as one heels their way along this one.