Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,033 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 26, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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First off, I will buy a beer for whomever it was who unburied the start of this classic. At the tropics walk or climb up the ridge well past the initial roofs, aretes to the first main switchback in the 'new' road. Start either on two well chalked flat crimps, and move 2-3 moves to the left to a left downsloping jug -- but many, myself included often start here. Pop left to another jug, then sequentially move through several crimps, heel hooking, to reach the low jugs at the corner. Find one of the most amazing rest ever (it's been in the mags). Now climb out to the prow, around and to the large jug to the left. Match many appendages here. Now climb left on the rail. At it's end 'slap the monkey.' That would be that distant jug above the last of the rail, you silly. Find the key rest here before continuing left, low below the final roof, where one climbs up the left side via laybacks and finally the finishing jugs. Heard the grade at V7, but only seems a bit harder than Punk (V5) to me, shrug?


A spot and pad are nice as one's back is exposed often as one heels their way along this one.


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I met the guy who dug the Mega out - strong as an ox and dumb as a brick.

This traverse is long enough that I feel it deserves a route grade. I think of it as 12+/13-. But once you get the moves dialed, the rating doesn't mean much. I consider Punk Rock to be solid .12. Very different problems - the Mega is more enduro and trickery. Aug 7, 2001
Years ago this grade was only V3/4, and is the version you described, with all the holds on. The V7 version is an eliminate version of the Mega that is quite a bit more desperate. Aug 7, 2001
Keep in mind that V4 is 5.12-, and V5 is mid range 5.12. The original version fell within this range, although there have been some holds broken over the years, making little bits of it harder. Definitely an endurance boulder problem reminiscent of some shorter climbs in the area. Aug 9, 2001
Yep. I dug it out. Kudos and props to me yo! Jan 8, 2005