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Finger Ripper

V3, Boulder,  Avg: 2.6 from 120 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Ft Collins > Horsetooth Rese… > Rotary Park > Central Ridgeline, in…
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Description

Climb on the very small crimps and sidepulls to the right of Ship's Prow Left and to the left of the curving crack - this lovely crack is off for this fun balancy problem. If you don't rip your fingers on the first small and second smaller crimp, or the small undercling (which some actually use in their sequence, myself included) then you'll might just have some fun pulling on the opposing sidepulls before reaching the jugs.

Protection

Pad and a spotter is nice for the harpack flat landing. Topout is very easy highball.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Finger Ripper.
[Hide Photo] Finger Ripper.
Richard Reed on Finger Ripper.
[Hide Photo] Richard Reed on Finger Ripper.
JJ getting started on Finger Ripper.
[Hide Photo] JJ getting started on Finger Ripper.
Back in March of '05, I gave this a try. Deff hard but I can work through it.
[Hide Photo] Back in March of '05, I gave this a try. Deff hard but I can work through it.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Andy Mauk
[Hide Comment] [Awesome] route. The [crux] is so much fun. But be careful topping out, because the top is really narrow and you could go off the other side. Oct 16, 2002
Jason Metzler
 
[Hide Comment] This route is great, fun balancy moves at the bottom, committing crux move and highball topout on huge jugs. Very good route. Probably only a V2 though. Apr 11, 2005
Colin Erskine
Loveland, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I tried it but yeah... I need a spotter and a crash pad. I worked most of the moves and was able to do it but it took some balls without any protection. Jan 30, 2006
Jeremy Monahan
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] V4-5 if you are vertically challenged.... Dec 2, 2006
Ricky Newman
Fort Collins, CO
  V3
[Hide Comment] None of these pictures are accurate in showing Finger Ripper. The proper route avoids the crack completely, using the two crimps on the face that are basically in line with each other (the lower one being much better than the higher). Move off of these crimps to the sidepulls located near the top of the lower face. Pull those feet up and commit for the bomber edge above.

For reference, yes, the two pictures are of Ship's Prow Right, while the "good form" picture is of another Standard Route on the Ship's Prow. This climb moves up from the undercling in the Curving Crack, out to a 3 finger crimp, and then up through the roof off of a fairly bomber sloper/sidepull. Nov 11, 2008
Brett Billings
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] In case anyone needs a reference: youtube.com/watch?v=PsezGSD… Sep 7, 2013
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
[Hide Comment] Mark Wilford showed me an interesting variation to this problem. Instead of reaching for the high RH side-pull, use the upside down undercling hold for your right hand about 6 inches lower. Very tricky and fun, give it a try! Oct 3, 2013
Brett Billings
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] I'll have to try that. I've used that hold as an intermediary thumb catch on the way to the RH sidepull but have never gone up from it. Oct 4, 2013