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Eagle Snacks (P1 of Gross Vogel (aid) or Frei Vogel (free))

5.10d, Sport,  Avg: 2.3 from 89 votes
FA: Pat Ament & partner, 1960s. FFA: (Frei Vogel) George Bracksieck & Steve Monk, 1970s. Retrobolted: Mark Rolofson, Alan Nelson, & Henry Lester, 10/12/98
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Eagle Rock
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures Eagle Rock DetailsDrop down

Description

The route just right of the low pine tree (right of the 12a). Plod up an easy slab to an overlap, continue up easy rock to a steep wall. Climb a thin corner on the left or traverse in from the right. Finish up a shallow corner and a last bulge. This is a great line with fun moves. It is the best warm-up route.

Protection

9 bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Glen starting up Eagle Snacks.
[Hide Photo] Glen starting up Eagle Snacks.
Eagle Snacks route. The crux is mid-way with a "gastonish" bulge, right-facing corner, if I recall.
[Hide Photo] Eagle Snacks route. The crux is mid-way with a "gastonish" bulge, right-facing corner, if I recall.
The crux can be climbed directly using the tiny right facing corner on the left, or further right as Adrien is doing here.
[Hide Photo] The crux can be climbed directly using the tiny right facing corner on the left, or further right as Adrien is doing here.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] The Rossiter Boulder Canyon guide shows a multipitch 10c trad route, Screaming War Eagle, starting in the same area as Eagle Snacks. The topo isn't very clear as to the start, but the description says, "The route begins near a small pine." Perhaps Eagle Snacks is a retrobolting of the first pitch of Screaming War Eagle. Rossiter calls that first pitch 10a, which may be possible, if you choose the easiest line. Oct 17, 2003
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Before setting off on the Great Dihedral, we climbed this very fun route for some friends who were with us. The route to the left has anchors no more than three feet from the anchors here, so we toproped it. This collection of sport climbs on Eagle rock is quite entertaining and much cleaner than the more famous dihedral. Aug 29, 2004
P Degner
anywhere
 
[Hide Comment] This route has some really reachy moves and is significantly harder if you are short. I am 5'2" and had to jump to get past the first roof. Oct 8, 2020
Mark Rolofson
  5.10d
[Hide Comment] First ascent information is incomplete. First ascent by Mark Rolofson, Alan Nelson & Henry Lester on Oct. 12, 1998. Like most of the routes on this wall, I have always enjoyed repeating this route. It is a high quality route for the grade. There are two ways to do the crux at the 7th bolt - just left of the bolt is .11a, & just right is .10d. Nov 24, 2020
[Hide Comment] This route is the retrobolted version of the first pitch of Gross Vogel (FA: Pat Ament), Frei Vogel (GV free), and probably Screaming War Eagle, each of which was climbed ages before the drilling began. Rolofson’s FA information is therefore incomplete. Jun 19, 2024
[Hide Comment] Just to correct what is still incorrect in the FA info at the top of this page:

This route is the retrobolting of Gross Vogel (“big bird”), a route Pat Ament and partner climbed in the sixties, using aid. The FFA of GV was done by Steve Monk and me in the seventies. It’s called Frei Vogel (“free bird”). Jul 1, 2024
Andrew Giniat
Asheville, NC
[Hide Comment] Definitely reachy, even for someone who's 5'10" with a positive ape-index. The other thing that made it hard (fun) is that unlike many places in BoCan there's no chalk on the thing to show you where to grab. Aug 12, 2024