PRINT: Rock Climb Muscle and Hate, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Muscle and Hate

5.10d PG13, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 7 votes
FA: Tony Bubb and Bob Shire
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > W Ridge > W Ridge - part C - Po…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Up by Practice Climb 101 and Sidewall, the routes do not all go to the top of the ridge. Above the two aforementioned routes there is a large ledge. Muscle and Hate is a logical 3rd pitch to either of these. Step left around a big corner to a medium sized pine tree with a rap station. Look up through the huge roof with a 3" crack going out its right side. Climb pockets and a Hueco from the ledge up into the crack (TCU in pocket to protect to the side) and pull some strange moves to get into the crack-then roll for the top. This is a great climb that still needs some consensus to confirm the grade.

Protection

The pro is not bad, but the boulder-ish start could produce a twisted ankle on the ledge. The potential for serious injury is low. Take a set of cams up to a single #4. Take an extra hand size if you want to sew it up.

The route has been cleaned a little and has now had at least a second lead (on-sight). Difficulty could be hand-size dependent.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Peter Spindloe stands at the base to view Muscle and Hate, a new route on the West Ridge. Photo by Tony Bubb.

The route, Muscle and Hate, as viewed from below, with low gear in place. Photo by Tony Bubb.

Tony Bubb leads Muscle and Hate, a new route on the West Ridge. Photo by Peter Spindloe.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

steve dieckhoff

Led this today and found it to be very good, well-protected, and pumpy. Nov 12, 2002

Wiled Horse

'Rock' and roll, Tony.... Jan 16, 2003

Thom Engelbach

5.10c

We thought it was more like 5.10, maybe a little bit serious before you get the first bomber hand jam.....every hold is either a jug or a sinker jam, and a double set of cams would be excessive. Still a fun diversion if you're in the neighborhood. Jan 11, 2004

Anonymous Coward

A couple of body lengths of climbing through crap rock (stepping from some very questionable piles of donkey dung) to get to a couple of body lengths of steep, lichen-covered hand crack. . . 3 stars? What am I missing? Sep 27, 2004

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.10d

^^^ Q: "What am I missing?"
A: Both an identity and the route, apparently. Mar 7, 2014

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.10d

The name of this climb might be less understood by some, but it was a reference to 'That Total Age' when people would 'Join In the Chant.' Not my favorite of their catalog by any measure, but Nitzer Ebb was in Denver last night and did put on a pretty good show for dudes around 60 or so. Reminded me of this. May 18, 2019

Colin Leahy
Eldorado Springs

Easy to protect, buckets to the handcrack, and then a couple hand-size pieces, you're set. Enjoyed the boulder problem before you get established in the handcrack. Dec 22, 2021