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Routes in Lower Infirmary Slabs

Acts of Contrition S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Look Ma No Hands TR
Mentally Infirm T,S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Morning Oyster T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Plague Boys S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Short But Sweet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 922 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jim Cormier on Dec 31, 2000 with updates from JFM
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: CLOSED - PRIVATE PROPERTY. This entire area is on private property and is closed. Details

Description

This is the easiest line so far on this formation.

Per JFM: the easiest line on the formation, this route probably isn't for a new leader at the grade. After clipping the solitary first bolt, there are some touchy moves, then it's (possibly) run out over a tricky-to-protect, shallow crack before reaching easier ground. Traverse left along the rounded shelf to the shared anchors (again, it is fairly runout).

Protection

Trad protection up to 2.5", the route can also be top roped from 2 bolt anchor at the top.

Per JFM: bring one draw for the sole bolt. A questionable #0 Friend (~BD #0.3 or c3 #2) and a medium offset brassie (#6 DMM) "protect" the middle section. After that, a #0.5 Friend (~BD 0.4) fits nicely into a crack before the run to the anchor. Perhaps an offset cam (Metolius blue/yellow?) could be useful in place of the #0 Friend.

Photos

chrisp
boulder
chrisp   boulder
Yellow and green Aliens after the first bolt- after that it's much easier. Traverse hard left to anchors that are visible from the ground. Feb 20, 2011

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