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Dead Raccoon Crack

5.4 A3, Trad, TR, Aid,  Avg: 2.2 from 6 votes
FA: Jim Cormier, prior to or during the mid-'90s?
Colorado > Lyons > St Vrain Canyons > S Fork of St Vr… > Scout Rock
Warning Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a great route to learn how to do tricky aid and some delicate nailing. You can protect the route by toprope as I placed rappel anchors at the top of the route.

Start in a right-facing dihedral working up 7-8 feet and tackling the small overhang which then follows a thin crack which diagonals slightly right until it joins with another route which is now bolted but was done by Jay Kinghorn on aid the same time as I did this route.

Protection

Birdbeaks to 1/2 angles, also will take RPs and HB offsets, and the largest piece I placed was the first piece which was a green Alien cam (1/2").

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Keiko cleaning the route.
[Hide Photo] Keiko cleaning the route.
TR solo great anchor set up above the line. Scramble to the top from the left valley.
[Hide Photo] TR solo great anchor set up above the line. Scramble to the top from the left valley.
A shot of the seam.
[Hide Photo] A shot of the seam.
Looking down the route. Used the hammer the first go. Went clean the second time.
[Hide Photo] Looking down the route. Used the hammer the first go. Went clean the second time.
Coming out of the seam.
[Hide Photo] Coming out of the seam.
Coming out the roof. It goes clean with micronuts.
[Hide Photo] Coming out the roof. It goes clean with micronuts.
[Hide Photo] untitled

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

PeterH Holcombe
Lafayette, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Funny to see this here. Good going. Did you notice the single bolt stud at the bottom? I used to rope solo this all the time in the late '90s. Fun practice nailing. Oct 14, 2012
[Hide Comment] I recall that Jim Cormier climbed this prior to or during the mid-'90s, before the bolt was placed at the base. Feb 6, 2021
Alex Ghiggeri
Denver, CO
  5.4 C2
[Hide Comment] This route will now go CLEAN! Green Alien, pink tri, and a series of offset micronuts do the trick. Sep 22, 2021