PRINT: Rock Climb E.O. Lieback, Vedauwoo

E.O. Lieback

5.5, Trad,

Avg: 2.7 from 119 votes
FA: unknown
Wyoming > Laramie Area > Vedauwoo > Fall Wall

Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form Details

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Description

This route starts in the crack that lies in the center of the large boulder sitting at the base of the Fall Wall. This is a great training crack for mastering the lieback and you really don't need the two enormous chicken heads to the right of the crack anyway. An easy fun route. A two bolt anchor with chains is found at the top of the route.

Protection

Medium cams and passive pro will protect this well.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Great route for kids - all the gear you could want on the way up.

Marge topropes the E.O. Friction route. E.O. Lieback follows the belay rope up the corner. Pretty obvious and casual. August, 2005.

Perfect rock, perfect gear... too bad it's so short.

This photo shows the entire Fall wall area. The obvious corner in the middle of the wall (above the climber) is E.O. Lieback.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Shields

What is this one too lowly for comment!?

A great easy route that will take pro every inch of the way! A bit of a runout to the crack right off the deck, but not bad. The only route at Vedauwoo I've climbed that I thought was over rated for difficulty. 5.4 would be reasonable for this one. Aug 6, 2003

nolteboy
Fort Collins, CO

This great route takes bomber pro and is one of the best climbs of its grade at the 'Voo. Apr 15, 2005

Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO

5.4

I agree; pretty easy for the grade and I'd give it a 5.4 at most. This would be a great beginner trad lead as the gear is obvious, good, and plentiful. I climbed it entirely with tricams, IIRC. Anchor building is not an issue; just clip the chains and you're done. Nov 4, 2005

Buff Johnson

5.4

Fun dihedral route! If it were only 10 pitches long, I might give it another star. Feb 3, 2006

JayJurkowitsch
Laramie,WY

Most of the Fall Wall and Clamshell boulder routes - especially in the 5.5 to 5.7 range, were FA by Jim Halfpenny in the mid-60's, and also several unknown 10th Mountainn Division vets of WW II. The 5.11 crack was originally an aid route and piton scars are the finger-tip holds. Mar 26, 2007

Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT

5.5

A very easy intro to liebacking at 5.5. Eats trad passive pro--large stoppers. Great climb for beginners at Vedauwoo. Jul 20, 2010

Taylor Spiegelberg
WY

What is the route to the left of E.O. lieback on the same face as Gunga Din but on the right toward the arete? Pretty hard crimps with about 6 bolts. Must be new, because it's not online. Jul 28, 2012

Bob Scarpelli

The route to the left of E.O. lieback is named "Busy Being Fabulous". It is in the upper 5.10 range. FA Bob Scarpelli and Mitzi Kenast. Sep 28, 2012

Matt.H Haron

Climbed this today. The bolts at the top move a little. I couldn't crank it down with the Metolius torque nut tool, so real tools will be needed to tighten the bolts. Great route though. Bring stoppers. Jun 16, 2013

Bailey Moore
Laramie WY

5.4

Led this with only a set of nuts. It is an excellent route for beginning leaders. Aug 25, 2018

Brian Reyman
Fort Collins, CO

Great climb - led with Totems in the blue to green range. The crack width varied, so I had to be thoughtful. It was easy to get going fast and forget about the feet. As long as careful foot selection is used, this is an easy (and very fun!) route.

Mussy hooks at the top, which were nice.

Great initial trad lead for someone. Sep 1, 2023