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East Face/Back Porch
5.6,
Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2.6 from 48
votes
FA: unknown
Colorado
> Boulder
> Flatirons
> Central
> Backporch
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Access Issue: Raptor Closure
Details
The raptor closure area has been expanded to now include the Backporch from February 1 to July 31.
Description
This route begins up hill on the north side of the rock, about 100 feet from the east side. The climb starts near a 2 foot arch.
P1: Traverse south through a small overhang to get to onto the east face. Follow the slab near the right edge for 30 feet. Traverse left and belay below a large V-shaped overhang.
P2: Traverse right below the overhang, lieback the right facing dihedral or climb the slab next to it. Pull left through the overhang after 25 feet and head up to a small tree. There are 3 pieces of old fixed gear on this pitch.
P3: Head up to the left through some boulders and pull an overhang near a fist crack. Climb a fun runout slab for 30 feet and head right at a boulder. Aim for a great finger crack at the top of the climb.
Descent: Do a 150 foot rap to the west off of 2 old bolts. (Back them up with a boulder) The last ~80 feet are free and spectacular. This descent can be done with 2 one rope raps. Make sure you check out the 5.13 roof problem on the west side called the "Five Year Plan".
Protection
Pro to 2.5 inches.
[Hide Photo] Back Porch from the North.
[Hide Photo] The best finger crack in the Flatirons, if it continued for another 100ft.
[Hide Photo] One of the new bolts at the summit of the Backporch.
[Hide Photo] A 2nd rope makes the rap much easier. I was glad to skip the hanging anchor....
[Hide Photo] Ryan starting off the E-facing portion of the route.
[Hide Photo] Rick below the beautiful but way too short crack.
[Hide Photo] Paul starting up the hand jam.
[Hide Photo] Paul heading up the first pitch, taken from the crux with the offending tree right in the middle!
I did two one rope rappels. Make sure the first rappel set up clears the lip of rock (long lip). I didn't do this and it took 10 minutes of yanking and all my strenght to retrieve the rope. I suggest bringing a long piece of webbing and a rap ring... The second rappel is off an overhanging belay from a bunch of slings. Aug 7, 2001
Westminster, Colorado
The ropes can be pulled slightly easier by scrambling 30 ft up the rock just W of the Back Porch to improve the angle of the pull.
1 star & not top 70, IMHO. Sorry Gerry.
The anchor at the top is less than optimal. There are 2 old 1/4" bolts (1 is a buttonhead) backed up with slings around the large boulder on top. The sole sling with a single hollow rap ring to extend past the lip was attached to 2 hollow aluminum rings. Now, at least , there is a second sling with a link. Apr 11, 2003
The fixed gear on p2 is from the 1950s and is not to be missed. I could flex the eye with my fingers, but I clipped it anyway.
In the summer the ants rule the ledge above p2. Belay above and left of the tree, lest ye have to dance with ants in yer pants! Apr 6, 2004
Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT
Boulder, CO
Colorado Springs, CO
You can do this in two pitches. 3 makes it more comforting. Oct 4, 2010
Center of jah universe