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Long Dong with Zentropa Finish

5.10c, Trad, Sport,  Avg: 2.9 from 9 votes
FA: Rossiter and friends
Colorado > Boulder > Upper Dream Canyon > Lost Angel

Description

Climb first pitch of Long dong dihedral and continue past bolts and crux corner/crack to another 2 bolt station at base of beautiful line up south/west face of the South tower.....slab climbing past 2 bolts to a finger crack (stopper/small cam).....follow crack up to blank section with 2 bolts, turn small roof by sidepull and layback up and right on phenomenal rock past a few more bolts to the summit. Sustained 5.9 with the 10c blank section (2 bolts) for spice..... very good pitch and much better finish than the Long dong dihedral 2nd pitch.

Protection

7 bolts and standard rack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The first pitch of Zentropa provides awesome 5.9 trad, with a few 5.11 moves on bolts. Just make sure that you place a long dong sling on the last bolt on the upper ramp as you then traverse far right to a set of anchors, which thus, provides much unwanted rope drag. Great pitch! Sep 18, 2001