Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk. USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info:
fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See -
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at
fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Avg: 1.7 from 16
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
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with love,
Crusty, the Trad Monkey Aug 26, 2004
AZ
As for the glued & bolted on hold, there is a long story behind it. There are two holds next to each other. One is a big edge, I pulled off & glued back on. I should have simply settled for this hold, but the other hold (an incut flake) that I pulled off was better. I had hoped that gluing this hold back on would allow the moves above to go without modifying the seam. Unfortunately, this hold fell off the wall before the PC-7 cured. This left an ugly glue scar. So I decided to glue & bolt an imported hold on. In retrospect, I should have left this hold off. The route would go without it & be harder.
In any case, I make no apologies & quite enjoyed the climb. It's the hardest climb at Easter to this day. In 1995, I put a lot of work into establishing routes, creating a trail to the base & doing ledge work. What I saw then, was that Boulder had numerous honed climbers who were Bottom Feeders. They were unwilling to do the work needed to establish even one route not to mention a crag. Numerous 5.13 climbers visited the crag that year (& since). No one was or is stopping them from establishing routes.
In order to establish a belay zone for Dynamic Duel, I removed bat shit from the base that was 3 feet deep. I wore a respirator to do this. I also cleaned hard, sticky bat shit from a jug by the 2nd bolt, using bathroom cleaner & a wire brush. I did a lot of work here. I didn't feel the route would go without improving the seam, & it still hasn't gone without the two manufactured holds. I did not feel in anyway obliged to simply create an impossible project for everyone to try.
I have equipped numerous lines that were too hard for me & left those routes for better climbers. The open unclimbed project (5.17??) that leaves the Dynamic Duel at the 6th bolt & traverses right to the thin seam, is a good example. I drilled one pocket on this project (in a bullet scar) to link to the vertical seam. I had hoped the seam would be climbable. I could have created a 5.14 by modifying this seam with numerous finger locks & pockets. I chose not to. I much prefer 100% lines. In rare cases, improving or creating one or two holds to link natural holds, seemed justified. It's a long debate, often with no right or wrong answer. Manufacturing the majority of holds on a route is a different thing altogether. This is something that I never engaged in.
Peter wants to have his cake & eat it too. In other words: take credit for the F.F.A of a route that had almost been sent then turn around & criticize my tactics at the same time. Better energy would have been spent leading by example (establishing new super hard new lines at the crag) rather than being a zealot & critic with a holier than thou attitude. Aug 10, 2019
Boulder Colorado
I think your route description goes beyond representing the facts & is rather judgmental. It's a bit over the top. I'm not saying that I am above criticism for my actions, & I understand your issue with chipping & drilling of holds. Here we are 23 years after you did the FFA & 24 years after I did a one hang ascent of the route, & it still hasn't gone without the drilled pockets in the seam or the glued on holds. I doubt many people are that offended by the holds either. You could write the same critique into many other route descriptions with far more blatantly manufactured holds. In order words, I think your route description does this worthy route a huge disservice. Criticism like yours are best left for the comment section, not as the main focus of the route description. Aug 10, 2019
I climbed (or should I say aided lol) it using the bolted on hold and the drilled pockets. The moves to get to the midway rest are interesting. The moves from the rest to the top are quite enjoyable using the pockets and making a big move to the lip!
For difficulty, I compare it to the other routes at the crag. Nevermore, The Flying Beast, and Dynamic Duel are all full letter grades apart, IMO. I would suggest 12d, 13a, 13b or 12c, 12d, 13a if you wanted them to be stiff.
I agree with Mark that the bolted hold is barely noticeable from the ground. Thanks Mark for bolting the route, and thank you to Peter and Mark for providing the rest of us with a bit of entertainment in a comment thread that spans 18 years. I'll mark down 2036 on my calendar to check in with how the dispute is going! Haha! Oct 21, 2020