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Free Enterprise
5.12a,
Sport,
Avg: 2.4 from 44
votes
FA: Alan Nelson and Richard Wright, 1993
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Capitalist Crag
> Upper Capitalist Crag
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation Bumbling Stock Evil Area Ghost Crag Highlander Skinny Legs Stumbling Block Tetanus Garden Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
The left most route, Free Enterprise follows a small corner system for a couple of clips at 5.11 and then fires straight through the roof. A space of 5.11d/5.12a comes in pulling the roof and moving up the corner above the roof. Things run out a bit at the top on frictional climbing at 5.9.
Protection
Bring a 50 m rope and 7 -8 draws. There is a double bolt anchor at the top.
[Hide Comment] Much easier for taller climbers. I'm 6'0 with a 6'4 span, and I could get the crimp above the crux without doing any other feet.... I feel that this route deserves a mentionable high-dependent crux, going at 11c for someone my size.
May 18, 2004
[Hide Comment] Clipping that second bolt at the crux (assuming the draws aren't pre-hung) would be *much* easier if you're tall. I'm 5'6" and I couldn't clip it from the juggy holds at the lip. I had to clip it in the middle of the crux moves. Used a lot of energy. Good route, deserves two and half stars.
Jun 17, 2011
[Hide Comment] Maybe I'm missing something, but I found the crux to be perplexing. Could just be out of my style, but does anyone have any beta here? Highly enjoyable route, the crux just felt way harder to me, but it's entirely possible I was making it hard on myself.
Jul 8, 2020
[Hide Comment] The bolt at the lip of this guy is somewhat loose (maybe just needs tightening), and the bolt above that is even looser. They both might just need tightening, but I feel like they should just be replaced. All the bolts on this and Capital Punishment are old and rusty. If someone has experience rebolting, I would help, with time and money, replacing both Free Enterprise and Capital Punishment. Hit me up if this sounds like something we could do!
Jul 26, 2020
[Hide Comment] @JacobM - we were up there today and wrench tightened 3 that seemed on the looser side. With the ones over the lip, we tightened it down, but the nut still seemed to just clear the end of the bolt. They seemed ok as far as gear, but if you're up to replace/rebolt it, it'd be awesome if the anchor was moved. It just seems silly to have to go through questionable terrain if the anchor to the 13 is also right there.
Aug 20, 2020
[Hide Comment] All bolts replaced with 1/2" stainless 5-piece or glue-ins. Every route to the right of Free Enterprise has been replaced as well. Guns, Money, & Whiskey and Capital Punishment did not need rebolting, so they remain as they were.
Jul 3, 2022
Avg: 2.4 from 44
votes
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
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