Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade III
FA: Warren Banks and Brad Shilling, both of Pueblo, c1986.
Page Views: 9,996 total · 41/month
Shared By: Todd Bauck on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This route ascends the northern pillar on the NE face of Crestone Peak. Basically you climb the east face near the edge between the east and north faces. Protecting this climb can be tricky - expecially on the crux 7th pitch.

The specifics: Climb on the east face for approximately 6 pitches of up to 5.7 (with a 60m rope, you may be able to cut this down to 4 pitches). For the crux pitch, ascend from a ledge up and to the left to climb a small overhang (poor pro). Then do a rising traverse to the right (back to the edge). 2 or 3 more easier pitches will take you to the top of the pillar. From here follow the North Buttress route to the summit of Crestone Peak.

Keep in mind that the knobs which makes this climb good are sometimes loose/brittle (we broke off two!), so a fall could happen at any time. This route would be 2 or 3 stars if it wasn't for the occasionally bad knob and somewhat runout climbing.

Protection

Standard rack with additional shoulder length slings or shock absorbing runners (some of the placements are poor). For cams, bring narrow profile cams like Aliens and a #2 & #3 Camalot. Tricams also work well here.

Photos