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Routes in Shambala

If It's Free It's For Me S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Material Issue S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Positions Available S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Twisted Travels S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Unknown at Shambala S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Van Horn, 1994
Page Views: 621 total, 3/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

To the right of the main wall hosting If It's Free, is a blunt arete/face in rather blackish rock, this is unusual since most of the stone up here is red. Two easy clips lead into the middle of this ultra-technical friction route. Don't be fooled; just because most routes here are largely straightforward, Positions really is 5.12, and really is tricky. I tried to fire straight through the friction and flailed miserably. Whether or not it was intended, the right edge of the face kicks up just enough purchase for one hand to pull through the friction sequence, but it is still 5.12 climbing. What saves it from being really difficult, is the presence of a good horizontal system above the fifth clip, and this minimizes the amount of sketchy foot work. This is not powerful climbing, however, it is technical and very dependent on obtaining good frictional footwork. I thought that Positions Available was a blast.

Protection

Take six draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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