Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk. USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info:
fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See -
fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at
fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Also, I noted that the bolt on top of the right-leaning ramp was "off route". This is only partially true. It is off route if you take the 9+ traverse in the middle of the ramp and climb to the pin. It is right on route if you climb to the top of the ramp and then make a 10a traverse to the same point. Apparently there used to be an old star-drive located at this spot, replaced with the current bomber bolt a few years ago by a civic-minded Neptune employee. Jun 5, 2001
Interestingly, the lower traverse appeared to have two options: traverse on the heavily chalked holds with bad feet (hard, I think those are sucker holds) or higher up with feet on the chalked holds and thin hands. If you have a long reach, you might be able to reach from the bomber right hand over to the left edge, but it was a balancy move for short lil' me.
The bolt, if you're a scaredy cat, will protect the 5.9 moves. Just climb up, clip it with a long runner, and then back down and do the traverse. This works best with double ropes, but there is pretty much no gear for the left rope except for a shitty nut placed in the worst of the sucker holds. I thought P2 of this route was tough, a bit hard to protect and "definitely 5.9"...whatever...YMMV Aug 13, 2001
Am I back to budding? nuts. Aug 14, 2001
Around Boulder, CO
Hopefully this does not start some huge flame war. Nov 6, 2001
I'm sure I'm biased in this regard because of my perspective. The "rush" I get from climbing comes when I am tested on multiple fronts - climbing ability, ability to quickly place reliable protection, route-finding, and perhaps most importantly, judgment and common sense. The routes I aspire to lead are ones that present all of these challenges in varying degrees - an approach that doesn't always equate to pure climbing difficulty. Even if I never have the ability or nerve to climb them, it's nice to know that 7 Arrows, Jules Verne, The Lion, and many others are still around in something resembling their original state - it's what keeps me coming back. Feb 21, 2002
The 10c variation you mention is the 2nd pitch of Corinthian Vine. The first pitch of this route is the Boot Lead. The 3rd pitch is rated 12c/d and is bolted. I agree that Corinthian Vine's 2nd pitch makes a great variation to the South Face. When I did it, I combined it with the first pitch of the South Face (still not that long of a pitch). My partner then traversed left to rejoin the regular South Face. There are three different ways to do this traverse.
Bill Jul 25, 2002
Re protecting the traverse: there is a good TCU placement (like Metolius #0 or #1, can't remember) under the small undercut that's at waist level when you're at the stance to begin crossing. It's a good hold too, but I found I was a lot happier using it as placement than as a hold. And I know it's good because it held my fall as I was trying to work out that sandbag traverse. I would recommend that placement to anyone -- unless you're into a "20 footer on a good nut". May 18, 2003
I can relate to what you wrote. When I look at some of the things I climbed and how I climbed them twenty years ago, it just scares the heck out of me. How did I ever live to see grandchildren? Isn't it funny that when we are young, with so much life ahead of us, that we take so many chances. Then, when we get older, and have less years left, that we take less chances and become so much more conservative in our climbing practices? Apr 25, 2005
Boulder, CO
Denver, CO
I think I went too far left and then tried to finish up two different cracks - the left one had a medium bush/tree at the top near the big ledge. It seemed that this area doesn't get alot of traffic as there was dirt and a bit of rock exfoliation. Does anyone know if this is an upper pitch to another climb? Jun 13, 2008
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
colorado
northwest of Denver, CO
Longmont, CO
Boulder, Co