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Monkey See, Monkey Do

5.12b, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 28 votes
FA: Alan Nelson & Ken Trout, 1991
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Monkey House
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Description

Monkey See, Monkey Do only works for some monkeys. The Monkey House wall contains a short sector with a large roof 30 - 35 feet above the talus. Presently, a single route runs through the middle of the roof and this is Monkey See, Monkey Do. If you look at doing this route, bear in mind that looks can be deceiving. The roof on Monkey See, Monkey Do looks intimidating, while the slab approach looks tweaker but casual. Pull up off the talus for a clip just before a foot wide overlap, thin finger-crimps and a long reach will just snag a second clip, a crux in its own right. Pull the 5.12b crux following the second bolt as a left angling finger traverse on disappearing feet. Breathe easy from here on out because all of the difficult climbing can be disposed of in the first 15 feet off the ground. No beta for the roof except to say that it is well protected; I felt that the conventional long sling below the roof was not even essential given the placement of bolts on this route. Pull up over the roof on.... No more beta. If you can't dig this move, why climb? Two stars for the continuity, good stone, great finish, and the tricky finger-intensive start. Let's all chant another mantra for the Master of Clear Creek, Alan -The-Bolting-Fiend- Nelson.

Protection

QDs only. This 50 foot route needs only half a dozen draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jeff after the crux.
[Hide Photo] Jeff after the crux.
Jeff in the thick of it.
[Hide Photo] Jeff in the thick of it.
Jeff in the roof.
[Hide Photo] Jeff in the roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Cavallaro
Lone Tree, CO
[Hide Comment] I personally thought the crux was getting up to the 2nd clip, and then the traverse was slightly easier.... Apr 28, 2003
[Hide Comment] I agree with Chris that the crux seemed like getting to just beyond the second bolt. Clipping the second bolt after doing the crux is an option to consider, as the fall from there is not bad (as I proved a couple of times!). On the other hand, blowing the clip from below might put you on the ground. Jul 20, 2003
[Hide Comment] Getting to just left and below the second bolt is certainly the crux. Beyond that this route has hard moves but nowhere near as difficult as attaining the crimper pinch thing. I definitely recommend clipping from just right of the second bolt. As indicated this is a good stance and well protected. Alternatively just stick clip it from the ground. I am guessing that something broke for the starting set of moves to arrive at the second bolt as this move was waaaay harder than anything else on the route and there is clear evidence of breakage.This individual move seemed harder than anything on ten digit dialing. Apr 17, 2004
[Hide Comment] This route is fun. The upper roof is really fun. However, to me, it felt kind of hard for Clear Creek 12b. It definitely felt harder than Ken T'ank, The Great Excape and Big Dog. The traverse really feels way easier than what lies before it. Sep 29, 2007
Jeffrey Arthur
Westminster, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Getting to the 2nd bolt is definitely a powerful crux (it's not the only crux. There are three). I usually blow that move a few times before my fingers warm up to those small crimpers and bad feet before sending it. However, when doing that move the 1st bolt is at your waist and an attentive belayer should not allow you to hit the talus below. I use to stick clip the 2nd bolt until my belayer forced me to do it without since I was merely toproping the crux. Apr 5, 2010
[Hide Comment] Great line! Almost an on-sight. It will go done next time. Put a long draw on the last bolt just after the final roof section!!! Falling on the finshing moves will shred a standerd length sport draw. I mean a draw that is about 4-6 inches!!! Just two falls at the end of the day came close to cutting my draw in half!!! That in mind this is a grat summer climb!!!! Jun 26, 2010
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] The upper roof on this climb has broken and is now the crux. This upper roof crux now probably puts the grade into the 5.13 / 5.13+ grade.

Also there is a new route "Ape Index," 13d, that breaks right after the third bolt of "Monkey See Monkey Do". Apr 27, 2020
Kevin Capps
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] This is now posted as a separate route, Monkey See, Monkey Do (after the break), since it now feels a number grade harder with the hold/s breaking in the upper roof. May 9, 2020