PRINT: Rock Climb Falcon's Fracture, Flatirons

Falcon's Fracture

5.8+, Trad,

Avg: 2.2 from 6 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > North > Third Flatiron

Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Access Issue: Raptor nesting lifted July 26, 2023 Details

Per Ryan Kuehn, Stewardship Director, Boulder Climbing Community: the seasonal raptor closure on the Third Flatiron will be extended beyond July 31st, 2023. The reopening date is TBD. This has been lifted as of 7/26/23 from the OSMP website per Zachary Henry.

bouldercolorado.gov/service…: lifted 7/26/23: Third Flatiron, including Queen Anne’s Head, W.C Fields Pinnacle, 1911 Gully and the Ghetto, the East Bench & West Bench, the East & West Ironing Boards, The Fin, Green Thumb and Jaws.

Update from the Flatirons Climbing Council July 2021: due to late nesting of peregrine falcons this year (2021), this area is closed until ~Aug. 12, 2021.

Information on OSMP wildlife closures, which help to protect sensitive habitats, can be viewed at:

bouldercolorado.gov/service…
maps.bouldercolorado.gov/wi…

The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
First Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Second Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Pinnacle (Gregory Canyon)
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws

Updated details may be found here.
osmpwildlifeclosures.org.

Description

This route could use more traffic as it is a bit grubby (lichenous). If you are in the vicinity, it is a worthwhile challenge, the rock is excellent.

Right of Friday's Folly there is a long left facing corner (the route Pentaprance). The next big crack/chimney right of this is Falcon's Fracture. Scramble south from the base of the raps and locate and climb an easy (5.0) traverse right (south) ending at a tree about 50' up the Falcon's Fracture dihedral (starting near the base of Pentaprance). From this start the hard part of the route is not visible. Alternatively, go for the 5.9 Direct Start, which climbs the crack from the bottom. It was first led by Jim Ericson.

From the tree, the next 30' of the vertical to overhanging dihedral are the crux. The initial moves are quite tricky and I resorted to using the tree. About halfway through, there is an ancient bolt right next to a perfect 1" crack (why?). The final moves are well protected and airy stemming. Then you can get into an easy chimney and easily romp up 70' more to Slip-Slide Ledge.

Continue to the top via the SW Chimney, or descend that route.

Protection

Standard rack to 3.5"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

More stemming on Falcon's Fracture.

Warren stemming the crux pitch on Falcon's Fracture.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.9

I did this route on Saturday and was actually pretty impressed. It would be a darn fine route if cleaned, but the lichen on it makes for some bother. Without getting too far into the ethical debates of removing lichen... If this were to be cleaned, the proper way to do so in this situation would be with a short-bristled dust broom. The second could come up and more or less sweep the bad patches off. If this were done maybe twice, it would turn a 1-star pitch into a stellar climb.

This is a 1-star route as is, but if someone were to clean it WELL, it would easily become a 2* route. If it were clean and onthe bastille, it would be one of the best pitches there and people would rave about it as a 3* route.

This climb is mighty tough for 5.8. Particularly if started from the Jim Ericson "direct start" Sep 16, 2002

George Bell
Boulder, CO

5.8

Did the direct start today on the route - it is burly but well protected 5.9, definitely a fun and recommended variation to this route. We also managed to do the move past the tree without using the tree! The Third was crowded today with all the people squeezing in an ascent before the Falcon closure tomorrow! Jan 31, 2003