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Routes in The Zoids

Antithesis T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Bonzoid Corner TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Caucasoid Corner TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caucasoid Crack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Caucasoid Wall TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Face Full o' Bush T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall is in the Air T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fat Finger Frenzy T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Lick Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
New Shoes TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Peeled and Deveined TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Petting Zoo TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poloroid S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sedated Racoon TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Warren Piece TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Young Wretches TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: [R Hanson TR '86, '89 led T Hanson & S Stills]
Page Views: 129 total, 1/month
Shared By: Dan Mottinger on Apr 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

In the middle of the Zoids, between the Falls Wall and the Projects, is a bolted arete.

The climb starts off on a lower tier left of the arete, leading to a ledge and the arete. The crux of this route is getting to the first big ledge/ clipping the first bolt. The start is a good boulder problem in itself leading to easier climbing on the arete with obscure holds.

Protection

7 QDs. The two bolt anchor on top is missing hangers, so the alternatives are to set up an anchor on top with or without the last bolt. A large sling is useful for the top anchor.

Photos

Jon Solove
Denver, CO
Jon Solove   Denver, CO
Climbed this route yesterday and the top and 2nd to top bolts seemed proper sketchy - both wiggled a bit. Yikes. May 11, 2010
Kegan Minock
colorado springs
Kegan Minock   colorado springs
Yeah, I was on this route yesterday. It was crazy! Tom's guidebook said it was 6 draws, so I took 6 up with me only to find I was one short! and the last bolt is pretty sketchy. It's starting to get loose! May 3, 2010
TJ Quirk
Parker, CO
TJ Quirk   Parker, CO
The first bolt is a bit high for my taste, and you've got to commit through the crux to get to it. Top bolt looks freaky- the sleeve sticks out about an inch from the rock. And both anchor bolts are long since cut, so plan to top out and bring gear for a top rope.

Fun climb! Mar 28, 2010
Ben Burnett
Colorado
 
Ben Burnett   Colorado
 
Fun. The first bolt is about 15 ft up and past the crux. and anchor can be made with a few long sligs (we used cordalettes) a pink tricam, and some #1 to 2 Camalots. Nov 17, 2008
Begin with the left hand in one of the many holes at the bottom. Step up. Grap the holey pocket under the small crack with your right hand. Catch the highest hole on the left with you lefty and the right goes to the cracky, sidepullish, crappy hold. If you're 6' tall, you should be able to hit the top with your left, it's now time to clip, after clipping reach for the top with your right hand, but wait, mind the cactus. Shimmy up onto the ledge and stand up. Congrats, you've passed the crux, and you're now onto fun climbing. Wrap your left hand around the cobble and put your right foot on the arete behind you. This is personally my favorite move on this route. After this move, you're on the second ledge, and the arete is the only thing left. There's plenty of good holds but no anchors, so you should either top out or sling it. You're done, great job! Nov 30, 2003