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Routes in The Sports Wall

Balkan Dirt Diving T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beginner Sports T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Changing Corners Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Generation Gap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happiness of Pursuit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
My Generation S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Number 5 Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pet Semetary T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtastic T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Sport Fixed Hardware (8)
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 1,487 total · 7/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Pet Semetary is the right hand bolted line in the middle of The Sports Wall in greyish colored rock. Head up the corner system right of the yellow wall that hosts Balkan Dirt Diving for the first clip a - ways off the ground. It is possible to fish in some very small gear, wires are best, before the clip. Take a breath, and shove on for some fun 5.10 climbing up to the small roof at 50 ft. A brief 5.11 section at the roof and a couple of more clips will get you to the anchor. Two stars for the fine stone, fun moves, and nice continuity in the climbing.

Protection

QD only was the original way; it is possible to get in a small camming unit or small wires in the corner system prior to the first bolt. The route is 75 feet long and needs 7-8 draws after the start.

Eds. The bolts were replaced (except for the 1st bolt) in 2015 with 1/2" SS bolts. Thanks, Lisa & Dave!

Photos

mmk
Golden, CO
  5.11
mmk   Golden, CO
  5.11
Be prepared for some consistent, challenging climbing from bolt 2 until after you pull the roof. I placed a 0.4 cam in the runout about halfway up, as an unprotected fall there would be rough. No bolts after the roof but relatively easy climbing. Very good route! Nov 27, 2017
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
My husband, Dave, and I replaced the anchors and all lead bolts, except the first one, with 1/2 inch, stainless, 5-piece bolts and stainless hangers. Thanks to the BCC for supplying the hardware. Please consider donating:

Boulder Climbing Community donation page Dec 11, 2015
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
Bolts 4 and 5 are getting worse. However, you can get a good large nut above 4 and a good #2 1/2 Friend above 5 (yellow Camalot?). Dec 8, 2015
Total 6 bolts, including the recently replaced first bolt. The next few bolts are rusted junk. The bolt at the crux looks OK. We toproped. Dec 5, 2014
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11b
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11b
Just a warning, but the bolts on this route look a little suspect. Inspect for yourselves. Dec 18, 2011
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
5.11a/b
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
5.11a/b
Starts with an awkward Eldo-like dihedral with a Table Mesa roof at the crux. Interesting combination. Jan 25, 2009
jhump  
Surprisingly good route- much better and harder than it looks. The moves are nicely sustained throughout. Very trad-like climbing. A hidden finger lock takes the sting out of the roof- but it is easy to grope on the jugs and fall off before you find it. Jul 23, 2008
There is only one bolt after the roof; a TCU is gneiss to have when you get pumped....-dmm Jul 19, 2001
Someone chopped the bolt getting on top of the block. Good mid-sized nut in the corner, however. Easy moves, but still, WTF! -dmm Jul 13, 2001