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Routes in The Sports Wall

Balkan Dirt Diving T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beginner Sports T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Changing Corners Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Generation Gap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happiness of Pursuit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
My Generation S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Number 5 Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pet Semetary T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtastic T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft Fixed Hardware (2)
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 5,130 total, 25/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Here is another excellent route by the master of excellent routes, Ken Trout. Balkan Dirt Diving begins in the middle of The Sports Wall in a smooth yellow plate bounded by a corner on the right.

Balkan Dirt Diving, like Generation Gap, delivers its crux right away. A thin seam move and a pair of clips leads quickly to a tricky traverse straight right into a shallow, left-facing corner. Hitting the corner dusts the crux at 5.12a. Chase a few bolts on excellent edges to a small roof that can be pulled on the left. Save the TCUs for the horrizontal jams above; the anchor is right above.

Three stars for the high quality stone, good climbing moves, variety, and continuity. Welcome to Clear Creek!!

Protection

QDs only. The route is 75 - 80 feet long and needs 6 - 8 draws and a pair of small TCUs or #1 Camalot for the upper section before the anchor.

Eds. the bolts were updated with 1/2" stainless steel Powers bolts in 2016. Thanks, Lisa & Dave!
mmk
Golden, CO
mmk   Golden, CO
Fighting the barn door in the opening moves is tough. Not height dependent though, my 4'11" daughter cruised right through it, work the beta, it is all there for any height/ape index. Nov 27, 2017
Michael Underwood
Denver, CO
Michael Underwood   Denver, CO
I've gone up to Sports Wall several times on summer mornings to work this fun route, and every time I've seen a rattlesnake. Apparently the trail to this crag is a perfect spot for them. Jun 30, 2017
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
The rusty anchor bolts were replaced with 1/2" stainless steel Powers bolts. The original holes were reused. Thanks BCC for supplying the hardware. Please consider donating:
boulderclimbers.org/what-do… Jan 24, 2016
Brett S.
Colorado
  5.12a
Brett S.   Colorado
  5.12a
Loved this route. Awesome and challenging boulder problem start. Enjoyed the little runout to the anchors, added character to otherwise forgettable climbing. Dec 1, 2015
GabeO
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
Really nice route. One note though: the beginning (especially getting off the ground) is very height-dependent. I'm 5'7" with a plus two ape index, and I was fine, but my wife who is two inches shorter, with a minus one, simply could not reach the left hand from the ground. The only way to have started would've been with a cheater stone, or pull 12c moves. Mar 24, 2014
Helps to have a long draw on the second to last bolt (not needed on the last bolt on the R-facing wall at the last roof). I used a #4 Metolius in the vertical slot, easily reached once established above the last roof. However, I added a #2 Metolius (had the gear with me anyway) in a horizontal as a directional, b/c the rope pulls quite a bit around the corner. Really, there's nothing hard after the roof, but the piece is comforting. P.S.: the climb is not over after the 2nd bolt. Aug 30, 2012
Buckc
 
Buckc  
 
Gear made this route much safer up high. It is around a 20ft run out on big leggy holds. However, you will be pumped from the climbing down below. Mar 22, 2011
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
There is no need for gear on this route. If you can get through the bottom, the runout 5.7 outro is easy. Feb 22, 2011
chipacles
  5.12a
chipacles  
  5.12a
Fun route and with a tough first move! I think this move is hard for 12a, but given that it's the first move and you can do it again and again until you get it, then send the rest, it makes it 12a, as the rest of the route isn't nearly so hard (though still stout!).

I love the thin techy moves down low and the bigger, burlier moves up top. Fun stuff with a nice mix.

I put a BD #1 C3 in up top, though really, once you pull the lip, you should really fall since the stances are good and you can lean into the wall to rest.... Sep 1, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12a
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12a
Love 'em! Keep em coming! my palms are starting to sweat already.... Jan 7, 2010
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Yeah, man! My pleasure. Glad you like my routes. Stay tuned for a batch of a few more ;) Jan 7, 2010
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12a
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12a
Thanks for replacing the gear on this one, Darren, as well as all the good routes you've equipped in the canyon. Jan 6, 2010
This might be a candidate for a Rawl 5-piece bolt. The nuts don't work loose on those. Jan 23, 2009
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Great route with moves not often encountered in Clear Creek. A little heady at the top if you don't protect beyond the last bolt but the upper stuff is in the .8 range. Great technical sequence on the bottom and nice pump out to pull through the roofs. Can't wait to redpoint it. Jun 4, 2007
Stellar- way better than I expected when I first looked at it. Oct 2, 2002
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Great route. Long reach at crux on thin holds. Rest of route is more moderate. Great vision. Mar 5, 2002