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Routes in The Sports Wall

Balkan Dirt Diving T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beginner Sports T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Changing Corners Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Coffin Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Generation Gap S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Happiness of Pursuit S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
My Generation S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Number 5 Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pet Semetary T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rufus' Roof Variation aka Climbing Sports T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slabtastic T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 1,760 total, 9/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 2, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Ex-warm-up, now a nice 5.11 clip up in its own right, Generation Gap is the left of the three main bolted lines on The Sports Wall. A thin seam leads the way immediately to the crux at 5.11a and the first clip. The route settles down after the initial difficulty to some fine 5.10 face climbing. It gets two stars for the fine quality rock, nice continuity at 5.10, and the occasionally devious move. It is a good, sunny spot in the early afternoon.

Protection

QDs only. This 70 foot line needs 8 - 9 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

John RB
Superior, CO
 
John RB   Superior, CO
 
I've been on this climb a lot in the past few months (with no redpoint still.... I can do every move but not fit enough to put it all together). I absolutely love this route. The opening moves are tricky but doable once you get it figured out, and then it's a pumpfest to the top. The rock quality is good, though the big block that gives all the nice jugs (from about 6ft-to-15ft off the ground) doesn't look like it's attached to anything, but the route is 25 years old and the block is still there, so....

The only drawback to this route is the massive highway (and attendant noise) below you, but that's just the deal in Clear Creek pretty on pretty much every wall there. May 2, 2017
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Definitely easier in rock shoes. Nov 2, 2016
John RB
Superior, CO
 
John RB   Superior, CO
 
How the heck do you start this route? I was just fooling around in tennis shoes at the base, but I couldn't see a sequence to get to the 2nd bolt that would be 5.11. Opening moves look super hard and off-balance. Nov 2, 2016
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
The arrow showed up after the flake which used to be used to start the climb from straight below the bolt fell off. I've assumed it was someone trying to point out the left hand hold for the new start... Nov 2, 2016
John RB
Superior, CO
 
John RB   Superior, CO
 
Why is there an arrow pointing left at the base of this climb?

If you go left and climb up, you're on My Generation (11c) instead. Nov 1, 2016
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Pretty good route. Kind of in your face at the start. When I did it, it was absolutely soaked which made it feel pretty desperate. There are a couple seams that were seeping some fairly wide swaths down the face, right over the feet I wanted to use. Then, of course, I endured the obligatory rain shower dousing.

The top is really cool - it seems like there is an unconformity and the gneiss becomes basalt that is similar to North Table Mountain. Pretty weird. Jul 18, 2011
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
5.10+
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
5.10+
The initial move is a little balancy/pumpy; follow the arrow and start left with the rope on your left side to prevent entanglement. Jan 25, 2009
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
8/24/08: added a new bolt w/ring to back up the two rusty cold shuts. New bolt is triplex and all stainless hardware. Aug 24, 2008
chris deulen
Castle Rock
  5.11a
chris deulen   Castle Rock
  5.11a
Every climb in the world seems easier than it is if you know the beta, you moron. Sep 25, 2004
It feels 11a if you don't know the beta, but I think if you know the beta it is really like 10c/d. Great route!! Jul 10, 2003
Good sunny spot in late afternoon as well.... A fun climb, turns out left after the third bolt, then back right after the fourth. Jan 1, 2003
Brett Boyd
Louisville, CO
 
Brett Boyd   Louisville, CO
 
I think it is 10a after the initial moves. The moves just aren't obvious the first time that you do it. Apr 9, 2002
Pumpfest with a capital P! Steep, balancey moves throughout. I was expecting one 11a move, followed by a 10a climb--wrong. Great line, for sure; challenging from start to finish. Apr 9, 2002