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10,000 Maniacs

5.11c, Sport, 50 ft,  Avg: 2.8 from 16 votes
FA: Glen Schuler, Mark Milligan and Rick Westbay, 1988
Colorado > San Luis Valley > Penitente Canyon > Penitente - Inner Canyon

Description

10,000 Maniacs is immediately right of Brown Sugar and ascends the same wall. Expect very similar climbing with longer reaches on a slightly past vertical wall. The angle drops back to dead vertical after 20 ft but never drops below this until quite close to the anchor. Angle a bit right-wards to get started and really work the feet. Clipping the first couple of bolts seems a bit spooky until the fingers are warmed up. The climbing on Maniacs is quite continuous and the diminishing edges just never get very wide. This is an excellent route with considerable tweak factor for something only 50 ft long.

Protection

Half a dozen draws and a rope.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dirty Murph
Alamosa, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Some asshole took off with the first bolt. Also, might want a couple of pads to protect the groundfall. Sep 30, 2008
Curt Nelson
Fort Collins, CO
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Great route. The first bolt/hanger is back as of 6-2009. There seems to be a problem with assholes taking hangers around here. I can't comprehend why some one would do that. Thanks to whoever put it back. Jun 14, 2009
Slade
Gunnison
[Hide Comment] I have no idea what my problem is...but this felt a bit harder than an 11c. Not sure why I think that...Forbidden Fruit honestly felt easier than this. For what it's worth...oh well...maybe I just need to HTFU!! Dec 5, 2010
Kevin Landolt
Fort Collins, Wyoming
 
[Hide Comment] The crux for me was right off the ground. Excellent route - not pumpy or powerful at all, just techy. Brown Sugar makes for a great warm up for this route. Mar 20, 2011
[Hide Comment] The start of this is insane. Something haaad to have broken off... right? :) May 19, 2013
[Hide Comment] Bouldery start but worth it for the top 2/3. May 24, 2014