Sport, 50 ft,
Avg: 2.8 from 16
FA: Glen Schuler, Mark Milligan and Rick Westbay, 1988
> San Luis Valley
> Penitente Canyon
> Penitente - Inner Canyon
10,000 Maniacs is immediately right of Brown Sugar
and ascends the same wall. Expect very similar climbing with longer reaches on a slightly past vertical wall. The angle drops back to dead vertical after 20 ft but never drops below this until quite close to the anchor. Angle a bit right-wards to get started and really work the feet. Clipping the first couple of bolts seems a bit spooky until the fingers are warmed up. The climbing on Maniacs is quite continuous and the diminishing edges just never get very wide. This is an excellent route with considerable tweak factor for something only 50 ft long.
Half a dozen draws and a rope.