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Routes in Free Form Wall

Bad Brains S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Barney S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Berlin Wall S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Bourgeois Belay Slave aka Bourgeois Belay Dogs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Castrator T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cougar V3 6A
Cyborg S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Don't Think Twice S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Freeform S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
GOBs S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Guilty By Association S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Habitually Human S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helium Boys S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Helter Skelter S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Karma Mechanic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Laughing Lab S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Matilda S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Maximum Security S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Minimum Security S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New World S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Math Required aka No Vacancy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Onomatopoeia S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Partners in Crime S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pedestrian Gene Pool S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Rocket S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solitary Confinement S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Supermax S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Swinging Chimps S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Take S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
UFO S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Village Idiot S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport
FA: Brian Mullin and Charles Walters
Page Views: 1,684 total, 8/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Apr 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Start just left of a blocky, offwidth corner. Do a bouldery start to a thin face move off a sidepull, then easier climbing leads to a bulge that is surmounted via steep, but positive, liebacking.

Protection

Bolts to chains.

Photos

Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Very fun route but definitely a bit harder start for 10b. Comparing it to many others, I found that move off the crimp and sidepull just above the first bolt a bit harder than its grade. In any case, still fun! Jan 2, 2014
I think the ac's right: no need to inflate here. Keep it at an honest .10b.

Great route, cheers to the FA. Nov 1, 2005
The brand new [Shelf] guide book calls this route 10c and Karma Mechanic 10b. I did both routes yesterday and agree with the grades. Great routes! Aug 22, 2005
ac
ac  
Anonymous Coward from 206.173.160.226 is user "Sirius"..... May 14, 2004
Greaser  
I think that Shelf is fair in its ratings. Some are soft and some are stout for the rating. Do the routes around Hot Beach (on Cactus Cliff) to see what I mean or go do Rain in the Bank or The Example (some think it's soft). For me, Shelf is every bit as hard or harder than Rifle; for the rating. Even Rifle has a few routes that are soft.

WHO CARES! Just climb and enjoy it, Otherwise you are there for the wrong reasons! May 14, 2004
Olson... everytime I read a comment of yours on this site you're inflating a grade. Could you stop? Good beta on the climbs though. Stick to your guns and keep that up. Not meaning to be a jerk, per guidelines, just looking to curb the virulent inflation in the Front Range decimal system. Otherwise, we're all out of luck when we go to places with real, solid to stout grades. Shelf already has the softest grades in the West, (Red Rocks a close second). Let's not make it any worse. May 13, 2004
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10c
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10c
The name of the route is "Bourgeois Belay Dogs". The crux at the second bolt can be done with an undercling and a reach to a shallow finger pocket up right of the bolt or by sliding left, moving up and then back right.

The bulging, layback crux at the last bolt is pumpy and continuous, with little for the feet. Harder than Suburbia or Armistice, so I'm calling it a 10c. Oct 15, 2003
... not shaded by late morning. Good winter climbing. Both this and Karma Mechanic are quality 5.10 routes Dec 29, 2002
For clarity: This route and Karma Mechanic are located in a shaded level alcove just off the trail on your right. Karma Mechanic starts up just behind a tree and is about 8 left of this route. Jan 1, 2001