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The Black Crack

5.9+, Trad,  Avg: 2.3 from 191 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Castle Rock
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Description

This obvious crack ascends the South Face of Castle Rock just to the right of Tongo and Atlas Shrugged. Good hand jams and a few awkward moves up the large crack lead to a left-facing dihedral 20 feet off the ground. Look for the fixed pin under the roof (use a long runner to clip it to avoid nasty rope drag) and finish to the right after pulling over the roof on large holds. There are 2 bolts at the top (only 1 is shown in the Rolofson guidebook).

Protection

An assortment of medium cams (up to a #2 Camalot), quickdraws for the anchor, and a fixed pin near the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Black Crack and The Gill Crack, showing the two-bolt anchor.
[Hide Photo] The Black Crack and The Gill Crack, showing the two-bolt anchor.
The Black Crack and The Gill Crack.
[Hide Photo] The Black Crack and The Gill Crack.
Head jams for the rest!
[Hide Photo] Head jams for the rest!
Ross.
[Hide Photo] Ross.
Awkward movements on this one.
[Hide Photo] Awkward movements on this one.
Moving out onto the face.
[Hide Photo] Moving out onto the face.
Going through the crux (for all of us at least)--transitioning to the face.
[Hide Photo] Going through the crux (for all of us at least)--transitioning to the face.
Beginning of the crux.
[Hide Photo] Beginning of the crux.
Fun climb.
[Hide Photo] Fun climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] By the time I pulled my right wrist out of the green pigeon shit, both deeply embedded in Black Crack's horizontal fist crack, I was starting to get a little shakey. But when I had to stem a few moves off of the 5.12 Gill Crack then make a head scum, I knew this was a pretty hard 5.9. S.Kimball. Jun 23, 2002
[Hide Comment] This route only has one star, but I think it deserves a higher rating. The crux for me was pulling out of the first crack and onto the face, before pulling over to the chains. Just look out left on the slab/face, because there are some feet, and rock on over to a good stance under the pin. I'd suggest slinging the pin too, as the eyehole definitely appears cracked. Every bit as fun as Curving Crack. JGH Jul 18, 2002
[Hide Comment] This was a cool climb and my first 5.9 lead. The gear was all good although I did crap my pants a little. A #3 Camalot fits perfectly in the vertical crack a few feet above the end of Gill Crack. May 12, 2004
Cody Munger
Carson City, NV
[Hide Comment] Pretty stiff for a 5.9. I found the Yellow Spur and the first pitch of Tagger to be much easier than this. Though I agree that none of the moves are harder than 5.9, it threw me off because it was overhanging, and I wore myself out trying to get on to the face from the top of Gill Crack. The pin is good. I took a whipper on it while trying to get over the little corner at the top there. May 20, 2006
[Hide Comment] Definitely a 5.9+ move in there getting from the fist crack to the left-leaning crack and slab! Different ways to do it - without giving it away straight in jamming not necessarily the best option.

Also, fixed nut between this and the pin when I did it (seems really solid), but the eye of the pin is cracked. Can protect above it with a number 1 Camalot (or even higher with a 0.75 which I had to do as I looked at the #1 on the ground). Would recommend due to the fact that if the pin cracks through and the fixed nut pulls when your rocking right on the final moves you could conceivably ground out. Nov 11, 2008
Matthew Swartz
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] A good climb, my first 5.9 gear lead. The pin is partly broken, not sure how many more falls its gonna hold. I was able to get a gray alien in to protect the crux. Watch out for the sharp edge that you pull over. Once you finish the climb better to pull the rope through your gear to avoid unnecessary wear on your rope. Cleaning will be harder but, I managed to do it so you can too. Apr 29, 2009
Rich Farnham
Nederland, CO
[Hide Comment] I replaced the broken pin today. The old one had seen plenty of falls, and I wanted to get it out before the other eye cracked. There is a new angle in the same place. It's bomber, so fall away!

When I took the pin out, I did evaluate whether it could just become a placement for clean gear. Without getting into the details, it is not a viable spot for anything but a pin, so I put a pin back in.

A local climber (not me) has put a ton of work into cleaning up this area. He cleaned out all the broken glass he could get, and spread wood chips. This is a vast improvement, and makes a nice spot to hang out. Jun 2, 2010
Kat A
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Thanks to the local climber(s) who placed wood chips down and cleaned up the area. We were there this evening, and it was quite clean. This is a fun route. It helps to anticipate "old school" ratings when climbing at Castle Rock - not like many of the other BoCan ratings. May 27, 2011
WadeM
Auburn, Ca
 
[Hide Comment] All I used was two #2s, 1 #3, long runner, and the anchor. Got owned on Gill Crack afterwards! Mar 30, 2012
[Hide Comment] Pretty old school 5.9+. Good gear. Jul 3, 2012
Eli Helmuth
Ciales, PR
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Sweet route in its current state. Somewhat slick like all of lower Castle Rock so make sure it's cool. Very solid RPs fit in below the pin, and you can place them from the shoulder scum or after clipping the pin if you're less of a fan of compression hardware. Just wish this route was longer at the 10a grade. Sep 1, 2013
The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
[Hide Comment] All the moves on this route are 5.9 at the hardest. However I'll admit that on an onsight attempt, it feels much more like solid 5.10, simply because the beta is somewhat difficult to figure out and the steepness of the route starts the pump clock and doesn't let up until the chains. So by the time you figure out the beta, you're way pumped and the jugs up top (and they ARE jugs) feel more like sloping crimpers. Jul 7, 2014
Savannah Buik
Chicago, IL
[Hide Comment] Awkward climbing after the horizontal crack. It turns into what feels like sport climbing, and although none of the moves are difficult, it can be a little tricky on the first go. Just like any route, once you figure out the beta it's a lot easier. Apr 6, 2017
Brett Bessen
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] There is a now mixed 5.11 extension...Fun movement with a slabby crux just above the first bolt. Two bolts and some small gear (0.3 - 0.5). Apparently, a black tricam, which I didn't have, protects the moves getting to the first bolt well. Jun 15, 2017