PRINT: Rock Climb Cornered, straight up variation, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Cornered, straight up variation

5.9, Trad,

Avg: 2.4 from 74 votes
FA: Cornered (5.9-), going left at flake undercling:Jim Erickson
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Peanuts Walls > Lower Peanuts

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

Climb Your Basic Lieback (excellent short 5.6) and traverse to bolt belay ....climb up past rotten section into steepening dihedral corner that gets steep fingers up to a large flake.

The original route, Cornered or Dihedral, goes left at the undercling on the flake.....straight up variation goes up the steep but fun finger crack right of the flake in the corner (solid 5.9) to a big ramp/ledge with 2 bolt belay up and right.

Rappel 80 feet to bolt belay and 100 feet from there to ground...could easily be done as 1 long and fun pitch.

Protection

Smaller cams....double bolt anchor for both anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lieback Link-Up, 5.6 PG-13, 5.8 G, following Levin's guidebook to Eldorado Canyon.

Marc, finishing strong. Great finger locks and gear through the crux.

Gregg getting into the layback.

Marc, getting into the "business' of the pitch.

Marc, enjoying the steepness of Cornered.

The regular route (see Dihedral), goes left at the flake. The direct goes up the corner to the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Bauman

5.9

This straight up version FA was Richard Rossiter in 1980, the original route Cornered or Dihedral (as it is renamed in the new guide book) goes left at large flake at top of dihedral, FA Erickson, solo 1978......I almost wussed out and went left at the beautiful undercling flake but the steep crack up the right side of the flake sucked me in....FUN. Jan 1, 2001

Ben Mottinger

Nice climb. Another way of descending: from the sloping ledge at the top, boulder up to the next ledge, then walk off toward the gully between Upper and Lower Peanuts. Jan 1, 2001

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado

Nice route straight up or undercling left. Nice entertainment just right on Forbidden Planet 11a. Dec 6, 2001

Ped	[Hide Comment] I went straight up the Cornered variation and found it to be great fun. I think this is solid 5.9 as well. It protects well and makes a great finish to Your Basic Lieback. Jul 26, 2006

Kat A
Boulder, CO

Felt like solid Eldo 5.9 to me. Very nice thin crack, with good pro available. May 18, 2008

Eric Haye
Boulder

Do the 5.9 section. Very fun and protects great. Aug 22, 2011

James Hicks
Fruita, CO

I managed to get a red C3 stuck right around the cruxy bit. I tried to get it out on rappel, but it thwarted all of my efforts. If someone gets it out, I would be willing to meet up and trade some beers for it, but it is in there quite solidly. So, in the mean time, there is a solid piece of gear that you clip as you pull over the flake/roof! Aug 18, 2014

Connor Newman
Denver, CO

5.9

Just an FYI, after topping out this route, you can rap back to the base of Your Basic Lieback (which my partner and I used to get to this one) with a 70m. This is much quicker than either topping out and descending as for Star Wars, or doing 2 raps back to the base of the wall as is shown in the Levin guide. Also, sorry James, but the C3 was gone already. Sep 22, 2014

plantmandan
Brighton, CO

5.9

This is a fun variation. The crux is pumpy but short - finger locks and smearing. The topout move is a little awkward as well but not as hard as the crux.

To start this pitch, I recommend setting a gear anchor in the gully instead of using the midpoint bolts to the left. It allows for better rope movement and less exposure to the loose rocks. As said below by Connor, bring a 70m for a single rap descent and short walkoff. It is much easier that way. Jul 23, 2020