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| Type: | Boulder |
| FA: | Bob Horan |
| Page Views: | 3,820 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Ben Mottinger on Apr 3, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Although I didn't get a chance to finish these problems (too tired and no balls that day) I wanted to add the beta.
A nice warmup is the juggy V2 starting off the block on the ground then pulling huge huecos for a topout over the lip.
For a tough traverse with fun moves, try the V6 SDS starting on the right side low. Move across on decent pockets and underclings then make some sort of crazy move (no clue on the beta here--big dyno maybe?) to join the V2 finish. Colorado Bouldering says this traverse is one of the best around.
It looks like some other problems may be possible out over the lip but would be pretty dang hard.
Per Joshua Merriam: This is one of the best problems I know of in The Flatirons.
The landing is flat pea gravel, for the crux, then you join into some part of the stand start off the adjacent pedestal boulder on the left. The setting is phenomenal: it is the only boulder in the field with a wild meadow backdrop, the rock itself is hard, colorful, overhanging stone, with a quality, non-contrived line that goes right out the roof and to the top of the boulder. Stunning.
Do an obvious sit start under the right hand side, from the lowest, reasonable holds is a great right hand sidepull, a reasonable left hand undercling (sort of pinch). Traverse left through a matchable crimp before the obvious crux getting left into the good holds in the V2, then finish it.
There is crumbly moderate climbing to the left of the V2, which could be utilized for a poorer, but independent topout. While addng some challenge, it would not increase the rating or quality of the line.
Eds. this is a combination of two submissions merged to avoid confusion.
A nice warmup is the juggy V2 starting off the block on the ground then pulling huge huecos for a topout over the lip.
For a tough traverse with fun moves, try the V6 SDS starting on the right side low. Move across on decent pockets and underclings then make some sort of crazy move (no clue on the beta here--big dyno maybe?) to join the V2 finish. Colorado Bouldering says this traverse is one of the best around.
It looks like some other problems may be possible out over the lip but would be pretty dang hard.
Per Joshua Merriam: This is one of the best problems I know of in The Flatirons.
The landing is flat pea gravel, for the crux, then you join into some part of the stand start off the adjacent pedestal boulder on the left. The setting is phenomenal: it is the only boulder in the field with a wild meadow backdrop, the rock itself is hard, colorful, overhanging stone, with a quality, non-contrived line that goes right out the roof and to the top of the boulder. Stunning.
Do an obvious sit start under the right hand side, from the lowest, reasonable holds is a great right hand sidepull, a reasonable left hand undercling (sort of pinch). Traverse left through a matchable crimp before the obvious crux getting left into the good holds in the V2, then finish it.
There is crumbly moderate climbing to the left of the V2, which could be utilized for a poorer, but independent topout. While addng some challenge, it would not increase the rating or quality of the line.
Eds. this is a combination of two submissions merged to avoid confusion.
Protection
A bong, bongo band, and three Leeper cam hooks.
Per Joshua Merriam: The landing when missing the crux move, or any move before, is safe even without a pad. Although pads would be nice. After the crux, you join the V2 from where falling is less recommended but not deadly.
Per Joshua Merriam: The landing when missing the crux move, or any move before, is safe even without a pad. Although pads would be nice. After the crux, you join the V2 from where falling is less recommended but not deadly.
Location
Per Joshua Merriam: take the Bear Canyon trail toward Seal Rock. After leaving the stream, and in the middle of a massive switchback, the Bongo Boulder sits in the middle of the field. The problem line is impossible to miss.
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