[Hide Comment] I looked around for the initials on Outer Space today(4/18), but couldn't find them. I stopped and looked at every conceivable sloping stance where a hanging belay would be possible. Any hints, how big are they. Jan 1, 2001

[Hide Comment] I love how some people, when adding routes, describe the pro. Its not scary or poor protection - it's "exciting", or "a little spicy." :-) Jan 1, 2001

[Hide Comment] The first pitch of this feels quite hard for .11a, very cool footwork intensive crux. Jan 1, 2001

[Hide Comment] For those who want to be more precise about their spice, the 10b crux on the second pitch is protected by the smallest rp I own. Even with a screamer, I doubted it would hold. The next piece down, a pin, is maybe 8-10 feet below your feet when you make the crux move. Tom Isaacson Aug 1, 2001

[Hide Comment] I climbed this yesterday and was able to figure out the (yes, very footwork intensive - look around for awhile to find the key nubbin) 11a crux of the first pitch - but ended up falling three times on the 10c crux (you can see the huge shelf but how the heck do you reach it!) of the second pitch! Maybe I just couldn't figure out the moves, but it seemed a degree of magnitude harder then the 11a crux. May 8, 2002

[Hide Comment] Nice job, AC, on figuring out the 11a face move. I've only followed this pitch once and I didn't figure it out. I think the runout above this move is horrendously scary looking. I need to follow this pitch once move before I'd lead it.

On the second pitch, the key is matching on a small, insecure hold up and right. You get it with your right hand first, then delicately step up and match - very insecure. This move is hard, but not as baffling as the move on the first pitch. At least for me. I've led this second pitch before and followed it and haven't fallen off this move. If you fell three times, it must have been a descent fall since the gear is well below your feet as you reach for this ledge. How'd the fall turnout? Did you fall on the fixed pin or put in a higher RP? May 9, 2002

[Hide Comment] I did the first pitch of this (Wide Country) the other day and I have to say that the section past the bolt is one of the hardest low-11's I've done at Eldo. The 10ish section above at the overlap is exciting. The 'hand-sized cam' that protects this section is a bit sketchy as it is wedged against a loose block. However, the block doesn't flex, nor does it look like it's going anywhere. One can back this piece up with a bomber yellow alien up and left (if you are tall enough to reach the placement). An awesome pitch! Sep 23, 2002

[Hide Comment] The Wide Country pitch would be 11d/12a as a Boulder Canyon sport climb Sep 26, 2002

[Hide Comment] 2nd PITCH HAS LOST A FLAKE: Today (6/29/04), I fell about 15 feet above the belay on the 2nd pitch (variation to the right), and my two cams pulled off a medium-sized flake. This was not the main undercling/lieback feature that you follow the the right, but a smaller undercling flake above the main one. I don't believe it will affect the overall rating of the climb, as the route really goes to the right of the flake before traversing back left above it. It does eliminate a couple of protection opportunities (which apparently weren't very good). Fortunately, my partner and I only suffered minor abrasions and a good scare. The flake landed in his lap, and is now sitting fairly securely on the ledge up and left of the belay. I'd hate to thing what would have happened if that sucker had fell to the road! Jun 29, 2004

[Hide Comment] The LK initial carving comment is truly interesting trivia. I'l have to figure out where ol' RB made his mark. Aug 24, 2004

[Hide Comment] Very entertaining and great clues, Steve! Hopefully it will pique the curiosity of a new generation of Eldo history afficionados....but isnt the answer to the last clue a different climb, namely Rosy? I haven't seen the film in many years, but I seem to recal the incident that I think you're referring to occurring on the traverse. Nov 15, 2004

[Hide Comment] Here is the story as told by PA in High Over Boulder:"I was wearing a pair of big mountain boots which Cub Schaefer gave me to try out on rock. I was using a stretchy nylon rope I didn't trust, I was belayed by a 14 year old kid I wasn't sure could catch me, I had no chalk. I had to hammer in all the pitons climbers today have the benefit of clipping, and I managed to climb the 5.11 move my first try. Dalke told me he'd done the upper section of the dihedral free and that it wasn't much harder than 5.8. So when I got the hard moves, and as all of my assorted adversities began to wear me out, and giving myself the benefit of the doubt that I could--under normal circumstances--lead 5.8, I started resting on carabiners on relatively moderate moves. Perhaps I shouldn't have listed it as the ffa. When people complained that I had cheated or been dishonest or some such, I returned and climbed the pitch in much more exact style."

Also, Bob, I think you meant to type DH instead of DK.

The old days are fun to reminisce.

By the way, Steve, do you remember when and where we first met?? Nov 16, 2004

[Hide Comment] Steve,

I was climbing at the Gunk's with Howard Doyle and we came across a crumpled mess at the base of Karma Sutra. I don't remember the date but I am sure you do.

Greg Nov 16, 2004

[Hide Comment] "So anybody want to name the climb, and where the RB initials are located on the climb??"

Steve - isn't it on Vertigo, and the intials are at the belay below the direct finish roof? That's where I see those initials in my mind's eye, anyway.

You can send me a bag of your left-over halloween candy for a prize if I got it correct :-) Nov 17, 2004

[Hide Comment] I first did the DNF around 1978 when I followed Rich Goldstone up it. Rich also led me up Rain which seemed pretty bold in that pre-cam period.

Did the first pitch yesterday in much worse style. The approach was fine. Lots of gear, but a bit dicey at the bottom. The crux was frustrating. It looks pretty easy, but the problem is, I think, the holds, although in reach, are in the wrong places and the balance and sequence are difficult. After a few falls and hangs, I tightened my shoes and did it, only to get pretty scared on the easier ground. Got a tiny brass high (that later fell out) and moved far left. Good gear the rest of the way. The 10 finish seemed straightforward. Strong winds and dropping temperatures convinced us to abandon our plan to continue to the top.

The crux is a bit problematic for the second because a fall swings you far left. Next time I'll climb double ropes (as I did this time) and after the crux not clip the right hand rope until the end of the 10 finish. This should provide a good TR for the second. May 8, 2005

[Hide Comment] This is far and away the best line I've done on the Bastille. An elegant and sustained directissima. Aug 2, 2006

[Hide Comment] Very excellent route. The climbing is very continuous throughout all pitches with varying degrees of difficulty on all. Above the crux on P1 is pretty spicy! I balked numerous times over the course of many minutes but finally wiggled in a #2 BD stopper and 000 C3 and did the moves. Pretty decent distance above the pin without this gear. Sep 7, 2012

[Hide Comment] If you find a small purple nut stuck on the 2nd pitch of Outer Space, please keep it, because I'm never climbing in Eldo again. Oct 5, 2019