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Routes in The Zoo

Living with the Apes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Wrench, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Primate Studies S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Dan Hare and Jessie Guthrie
Page Views: 138 total, 1/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Apr 3, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the leftmost bolted route on The Zoo rock. Although the cliff does extend for a little ways to the left of this route, it is approximately in the middle of the cliff. Look for the bolts leading up just to the left of a small dihedral. The moves on this route are consistently difficult. There are two cruxes, and both of them are well protected. This route is significantly harder if the quickdraws are not already hung. Unless you are very tall, expect some difficulties reaching the bolts when hanging the 'draws. Aside from being poorly bolted (don't worry, it's still well protected, it's just that every bolt seems to be about 6 inches out of reach), this is a pretty good route. Practice up on your slab technique, though.

Protection

10 quickdraws and something for the anchor. A 50m rope will be enough to get you down.

Photos

Mark Rolofson
  5.12a/b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a/b
I have climbed this route several times since 2000, when I first documented it in the first edition of Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide. The climb is not an easy .12a, & I usually do it on my second try after hanging the draws. I think it may have gotten a little harder at the crux past the 5th bolt, since part of a hold on the right side of the arĂȘte has broken off. I would compare it in difficulty to Kudjo Tranquilizer, that I originally rated .12a but is now rated .12b. The two cruxes on Kudjo are hard but come after perfect ledge rests. Living with The Apes is more sustained from the 2nd bolt past the 6th bolt. Then there is a good rest before the slab finish. At the 2nd bolt, strenuous lieback moves lead out left on a flake to face moves ending at a good hold below a small overlap. A technical, vertical face follows with an exciting clip to 5th bolt. Then the real crux, involving a small hold on the arete & side pull/ undercling on the face to get the feet up & reach.

I place a red Alien to reach the very high 1st bolt. After 15 years, this climb could still use some wire brushing between 2nd & 3rd bolts. In spite of lichen, the movement on this climb is so good I have enjoyed repeating over the years. There are 10 bolts. Sep 29, 2015
David A. Turner
  5.12a
David A. Turner  
  5.12a
While not essential, some may find a 1" to 2" cam below the first bolt to be helpful. Nice climbing with no raptor issues that I noticed, at least in the fall. Nov 7, 2004
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
I was here last Thu for the first time. There is a large nest about 40 ft up the cliff. I'm certainly no expert, but there was a good-sized raptor that flew away when I was within 50 ft of the base of the Zoo (coming from Animal World). We bailed. The routes are within feet of the nest so I suggest staying away. Anyone else been there this season? Jun 4, 2003