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Routes in The Monkey House

Face Full of Bush S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fuzzy Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey Bars S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Pause S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Puzzle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Monkey See, Monkey Do S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Shine S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
New Pollution, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Psycho Hose Beast S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Punishment For Shoplifting S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Schwing Salute S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soap on a Rope S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alan Nelson and Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 2,702 total, 13/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Schwing Salute begins about 100 foot uphill from the black water streak and Psycho Hose Beast, approximately 50 feet right of the overhang area with Monkey See Monkey Do. The climbing on Schwing starts up in the grey rock where a band of pegmatite crosses horrizontally. Pull up to the first clip on some interesting quartz edges. After several clips, a thin series of horizontal seams delivers the crux at middle 5.11 climbing. It is a bit reachy and a bit thin, but it is a very cool series of moves in the crux. The route feels a little spacey after stepping above the crux seam, but the climbing settles back to 5.9/5.10 moves.

Its good continuity, fun moves, and excellent stone are worth the double stars. This is another fine addition from the Master of Clear Creek, Alan Nelson. The man must be crazy, he just never stops.

Protection

QDs only. This 70 foot route needs six or seven draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Easy scrambling up to within reach of the first bolt follows into very fun, juggy, and reachy movement from bolts 1 to 4. From 4 onwards, you have less positive hands and a few greasy sloped feet. The two (or 3) mono pockets you can use throughout the route are an absolute blast.

Oddly I find this route to be easier than Reefer Madness (11a) just down the hill, but I think Schwing just suits my reach a bit better. Oct 25, 2017
6th bolt hanger is loose. Anchors are also loose. Jul 3, 2015
Dave Alie
Golden, CO
5.11a/b
Dave Alie   Golden, CO
5.11a/b
Short but fun. Moderate face climbing to a short boulder problem. Great route for beginning 5.11 leaders. Jun 11, 2013
nate post
Silverthorne
 
nate post   Silverthorne
 
Super fun, definitely left me grinning ear to ear. Just climb like you mean it and you will be rewarded for not hesitating at the crux. It's funny though, after I climbed it, my wife hung the crux half a dozen times until she worked out a move that looked like it would bump it down a couple letter grades. I need to try it again now because of how easy she made the crux look. I know I felt like a strong dumb ox after seeing her beta. Jan 11, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
5.11a/b
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
5.11a/b
This is a really fun route that rewards aggressive and confident moves with great holds. Even after almost 20 years, I can still remember the crux sequence: a blind throw to an invisible (but good) edge. Don't dawdle, or you'll flame out--just GO! Aug 16, 2012
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
 
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
 
Easy for the grade if you find the hidden edge, otherwise you may have some issues. Great movement and rock.... Mar 16, 2012
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.11b/c
Monty   Golden, CO  
  5.11b/c
The description calls this a 70ft route... I think it's more like 45ft???? Regardless, it's a really fun route on great stone. Apr 14, 2010
Sam Benedict
Denver, CO
  5.11b
Sam Benedict   Denver, CO
  5.11b
Yes, quite fun. Mar 27, 2008
richard magill
  5.11c
richard magill  
  5.11c
Fun. Sep 9, 2004