Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Rick Leitner and Mark Rolofson,1998
Page Views: 627 total · 3/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

I have been dying to spray a little about Rick Leitner, and here is the chance. One mark of a good route must be our willingness and interest in returning to the climb over and over again. I have come back to this Rick Leitner route at least a dozen times. I climb it every trip to The Solar Dome, and it is always fun. The route is on the West side of the crag, on the right side of the overhang area. It begins in a left-leaning crack/flake system that takes you a good stance and a good rest before the crux. This first part has terrifically fun, kinesthetic movement. The crux bails out right from the stance and involves a few thin moves and a long reach over the top of a small overhang. Bail further right and up to the anchors.

This is one of the best routes at The Solar Dome, and it is certainly worth two stars in my book.

Protection

QD only. Six QDs gets you to the top and a double bolt anchor. The whole route is perhaps 45 feet long.

Photos

To historically clarify this route: Rick and Mark did do the First Ascent, however, John Baldwin led the First Free Ascent, Chris Alber led the 2nd (second) Free Ascent on the same day. Reference: Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Page 53, Item #10, Author, Mark Rolofson. Apr 17, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
Good roue with a few thin holds, then a hard long move. Tough climbing but fun. Jun 5, 2016
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a/b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a/b
Got to say I really like this route. It really overhangs. The 5.12a/b rating was given because there are two ways to go about this climb. It is possible to get an off route rest to the left & clip the 4th bolt. Then, you are forced to climb back right to rejoin the line. This is the 12a version. It has the same crux moves, but the rest makes it easier. Having the 4th bolt already clipped makes it psychologically easier.

The cool way (.12b) is the direct version. The crux moves are done above the 3rd bolt. I have to get my left hand on a good lieback edge above the 4th bolt before I can clip it. The obvious, direct version makes for a sustained, short route. Jul 26, 2017