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Routes in The Solar Dome (aka Lighthouse)

Altoids On the Beach S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baditude S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Burning Up The Hillside S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Fire Starter S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Homesteader, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Howl Of A Hungry Cat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ice Hose Chopper Lunch Mob S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Kelp Bed Freak Show S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lady Of The Light S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lipstick Sunset S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Montana Floodgates S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Morning Sunshine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nimby S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nuns on the Beach S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Sundance S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Tanning Block, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Walking On The Sun S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Walking with the Homesteader S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Waves of Rays S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Waves on the Beach S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Willie's Wake Up Call Girl S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Rick Leitner and Mark Rolofson,1998
Page Views: 550 total, 3/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 28, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

I have been dying to spray a little about Rick Leitner, and here is the chance. One mark of a good route must be our willingness and interest in returning to the climb over and over again. I have come back to this Rick Leitner route at least a dozen times. I climb it every trip to The Solar Dome, and it is always fun. The route is on the West side of the crag, on the right side of the overhang area. It begins in a left-leaning crack/flake system that takes you a good stance and a good rest before the crux. This first part has terrifically fun, kinesthetic movement. The crux bails out right from the stance and involves a few thin moves and a long reach over the top of a small overhang. Bail further right and up to the anchors.

This is one of the best routes at The Solar Dome, and it is certainly worth two stars in my book.

Protection

QD only. Six QDs gets you to the top and a double bolt anchor. The whole route is perhaps 45 feet long.

Photos

Mark Rolofson
  5.12a/b
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a/b
Got to say I really like this route. It really overhangs. The 5.12a/b rating was given because there are two ways to go about this climb. It is possible to get an off route rest to the left & clip the 4th bolt. Then, you are forced to climb back right to rejoin the line. This is the 12a version. It has the same crux moves, but the rest makes it easier. Having the 4th bolt already clipped makes it psychologically easier.

The cool way (.12b) is the direct version. The crux moves are done above the 3rd bolt. I have to get my left hand on a good lieback edge above the 4th bolt before I can clip it. The obvious, direct version makes for a sustained, short route. Jul 26, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12a/b
Good roue with a few thin holds, then a hard long move. Tough climbing but fun. Jun 5, 2016
To historically clarify this route: Rick and Mark did do the First Ascent, however, John Baldwin led the First Free Ascent, Chris Alber led the 2nd (second) Free Ascent on the same day. Reference: Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Page 53, Item #10, Author, Mark Rolofson. Apr 17, 2010