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Portraits

5.11d, Sport,  Avg: 3.4 from 7 votes
FA: Tod Anderson
Colorado > S Platte > Devil's Head > Starcastle
Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Portraits stands two routes downhill from Lady of the Lake and on the next most distinct turret. You pass another good roof problem on the way. Use the fixed rope to scramble down. Portraits is the right of two routes on this turret. It can be done by entering from the left at 5.12b, but this seems improbable, and I have found the right hand start at 5.11d to make more sense. My guess is that most climbers will enter from the right hand start. Either way converges at the first bolt. A series of seams and overlaps leads to a final 5.11d crux move 30 feet from the anchor. Some good holds lie rather far to the right, so if the going gets thin, look around the corner. Enough said. Great route and worth three stars for continuity and quality.

Protection

QDs only. Just about 90 feet, a bit less perhaps, but a dozen QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top is all you need.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mark Rolofson
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] My intro to Devil's Head in 1997 began at the Starcastle. Portraits was my second route of the day. Send it on the 2nd go with the .12b direct start. The .12b start is past the 1st bolt leading to a great rest. From there on out, it's 11 bolts of sustained, amazing climbing up the left side of the arete using seam cracks & face holds. Great climb & a perfect opportunity for great photos. One of the most memorable climbs I've done at the Head. Jan 12, 2019