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Routes in The Headstone

Alienist T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chickenhead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Clouds of Jupiter T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Epitaph, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Haus Flake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Head Games T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Head Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Io S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lions and Chipmunks and Bears, Oh My S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Noble Savage T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Project (aka Who Haas Done It) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rampart Rage, The T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Razor Burn S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Remote Control S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rock Nazi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scratchy Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Slab Variation S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Topaz S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
V-Slaught, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Richard Wright and Mike Lane, 1996
Page Views: 317 total, 2/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 25, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

This line marks the right hand end of the Headstone and starts off the trail just before dropping below a large detached boulder. Ascend some of the only South Platte crystal climbing at Devil's Head for 30 feet. Move right and fire straight into the chocolate criss-crosses to the top. The route finishes in strenuous long reaches on perfect stone, and it packs the pumpy crux at the very end.

Protection

QDs only, but 90 feet long, so bring 15 or so QD plus something for the double bolt anchor.

Photos

slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Really fun route with a great finish. Lower crux is interesting, upper crux might favor the tall. Jul 30, 2011
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
 
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
 
What a great route! I didn't find it to be dirty; perhaps it has cleaned up in recent years. It's a long one--it uses most of a 60m rope--and comprises a large-crystalled section at the bottom, bulgy overhangs, and a blank overhanging face at the top. The crux is after the last bolt and involves making a deadpoint from poor feet to a three-finger pinch. I considered the detached block (seen in the main photo where the climber's left foot rests) to be off-route. If it's not, that could make the crux easier. Oct 18, 2010
FA - poached with permission (the other guys did the work) - July 1994 Jul 31, 2008
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Good route. Long with good rests. Tough on sight but everything is there. Kicked off some crap, thankfully I was high enough that my belayer had time to move. Oct 6, 2007
JDory  
I agree with the grade. The rating, two stars? Maybe after the maids finish cleaning it.I broke off two holds. One at the start and one at the second crux (small bulge). This is a great route that needs more traffic! Filled with tricky sequences. The top is amazing. Bring a umbrella for your belayer, Lichen City! Jul 7, 2003
Great climb, you will need you bag of tricks for this one. you need to smear stem,jam, and make a few powerfull moves to make it to the top (a great onsight)

Sep 1, 2001