Per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Eldorado Canyon SP is STRONGLY DISCOURAGING CLIMBING at this time due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
Climbing is NOT ADVISED. Social distancing is challenging in Eldorado Canyon SP with climbing. The park office is closed. Warnings (& possible evictions from the SP) may be issued for violations of the social distancing requirement for a minimum of 6 feet between people not in the same household. In addition, touching surfaces contacted by others, which occurs on climbing routes and between climbing partners sharing equipment & rope(s), is a risk.
Rescues related to this sport are highly technical, require a large number of rescue personnel and equipment, and they generally result in an ambulance ride to the hospital. Please respect the statewide state-at-home order.
Just right of Break on Through's large dihedral is a steep crack system that leads to a large roof. This is actually a better pitch than Break on Through's 1st pitch but it doesn't look that great from the base.
Take the thin crack straight up to roof, turn roof around left side and cruise to tree. 2nd pitch moves up thru rotten band and takes the right crack/corner system (left is Break on Through) up the headwall. Very steep crux but great pro and jams take you to the large ledge with 2 bolts at the far right. You can also downclimb to a dirt ledge, then head south about 10 feet and find a cable/rap station, with one more rap below that which will take you the base of The Unsaid.
Small cams (Aliens, TCUs) to medium....stoppers work nice too. Tree anchor for 1st pitch (same as Break on Through) and 2 bolt anchor for 2nd (rappel anchor).