PRINT: Rock Climb Mr. Natural, Eldorado Canyon State Park

Mr. Natural

5.8+, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 189 votes
FA: [Robert Crumb]
Colorado > Boulder > Eldorado Canyon SP > Redgarden Wall > Redgarden - Below Low…

Access Issue: Rockfall Access Effect & Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Per Dustin Bergman, Eldorado Canyon State Park Officer: the upper third of the West Redgarden trail and Rewritten descent trail suffered significant damage during that storm that came through a few weeks ago. Please consider choosing alternates routes lower on the trail.

Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.

The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.

For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/pre…

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted Details

Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.

Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.

Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.

These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.

Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.

See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.

Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:

Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…

Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!

Description

This is a nice hand crack that shoots up directly from the west Redgarden trail just before the wooden stairs...one short but fun pitch.

Protection

Bring finger to hand size cams...tree with fixed anchor 60 feet above trail.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mr. Natural.

Ms. Cindy looking casual on Mr. Natural.

Em at the start.

Chuck at the crux. Chuck is doing this very differently from Luke in the previous photo.

At the crux. The crux involves some strenuous hand jams with poor feet to get your feet up to a big hold in the crack. Captain 4Q 9++s climbs the overhang to the left to the hueco'd face.

Diane, as usual, making it look pretty easy as she cruises up Mr Natural.

FUN!! I agree with JB. Although I couldn't be wearing more clothes here....

Below the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA

This is a great warmup line. Rossiter calls it "lightning-bolt shaped", which is appropriate. To locate, look for the line running up the middle of a clean face with a big flake that you have to move to the left and up to get around. 60 above the ground is a large tree with rappell slings. Its probably 50 yards below the wooden ladder. Jan 1, 2001

Brian Sorden

Rossiter gives FA to Robert Crumb, the cartoon artist who conceived Mr. Natural back in the hippie days. So was the first ascensionist just a stoned art enthusiast or did he lead it naked with a long white beard? Aug 23, 2001

Jeff Lockyer
Canmore, AB

A great route. This route certainly can give you a pump if you fiddle with gear, all of the gear placements are great so keep climbing. Have fun with this one, a great warmup if you are doing Yellow Spur or anything higher up, Gma's, Darkness, etc.. Nov 4, 2001

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO

Three stars? A solid route for sure, but hardly three stars on an Eldo standard. As indicated for three stars: "This route is great. It's one of the routes that you smile as you crank the moves on the rock. The length and asthetics of the line are factors also. It's a route that, when you're done, you say excitedly to your partner, 'That was friekingawesome! You're gonna love it.' You look forward to doing it again with another friend." Aug 13, 2002

Anonymous Coward

Good route but too short for 3 stars. Jan 3, 2003

Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO

Very fun, but short. If the jam crack were twice as long, people would be lining up for this one. Aug 24, 2003

Richard Rossiter
Boulder, CO

5.8+

Oh yeah. Led this route naked in 1978, but no long white beard. I was inspired by R. Crumbs [relentllessly] 70s character, Mr. Natural. If you haven't seen ZAP COMIX, check 'em out. Heavy stuff. OK, the route is short, but the climbing is exceptional. Hence, three stars. As for the name, Captain 4Q, see ZAP COMIX. I would also recommend watching the documentary of the life and art of R. Crumb, CRUMB. Heavy stuff. Richard Rossiter Oct 17, 2003

ac	[Hide Comment] Saw the movie, as I never understood the underground following Crumb had.... Crumb was pathetic at best, just like his artwork. Lysergic acid diethylamide and a simple mind required. Oct 17, 2003

Old Fart aka Dave Bohn

"Those were the best of times , those were the worst of times". FWIW , I somewhat recall my solo ascent of the Bastille Crack on Purple Micro-dot. Guess you had to have been there. :~)Sorry you're too young to remember. Oct 17, 2003

Holly Barnard

5.8+

After pulling over the flake, there is a very large jug (hard to describe but you'll know is when you see it). Towards the bottom of this jug hold there appears to be some friable rock. Looked like it could break pretty easy if one were to lay back off of it. Just a heads up....

Fun route, too short, but might be a good lead for those transitioning from 5.8s to 5.9 in Eldo since it protects so well. Jul 25, 2004

Michael Amato

Tougher than it looks from the ground, this little pitch delivers a lot of fun and a high pump per vertical foot ratio. Nov 5, 2004

Richard Rossiter
Boulder, CO

5.8+

Mr. Natural's (the route's) only fault is its brevity. It it continued with the same quality for another 60 feet it would be a super classic. It's still super fun, even if it's short. I'm sure some guys could relate to this. As for LSD, Dr. Leary had this to say: "Psychedelic drugs cause panic and temporary insanity in those who haven't taken them." Jun 30, 2005

Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO

5.8+

I did this a while back and recall the line to be immensely enoyable, but too short. After getting spanked on Vedauwoo 7s, I was a little shocked at how easy this went. Definitely played more to my style, being a recovering sport climber and all. And the good pro was a definite bonus - especially since I felt deathly ill and wasn't thinking clearly. Apr 2, 2008

Canon

We did this because the Great Zot/Rewritten area was a zoo and we didn't have time to wait. Protects easy enough, but I was specifically trying to jam it on lead and didn't have an easy time of it. After setting the anchor, I tried it again and cruised up as a layback. Fantastic climb, but short. A couple good rest stances. Aug 21, 2011

Brian Stevens
Boulder, CO

As of this past Sunday (4/11/15), there is a very angry bat living in this crack. Apr 13, 2015

plantmandan
Brighton, CO

5.8+

Really fun. One of those routes that you walk by many times on the trail and smile at. More stars if it was longer. May 22, 2017

Matt Piscopo
Denver, CO

New slings on the Mr. Natural tree anchor added in May 2020. May 31, 2020

Amy Fleshman
Fort Collins, CO

Added another new sling to the Mr. Natural tree anchor on 2/7/2022. (2020 slings were feeling pretty sun-baked). Feb 8, 2022

Hogan Metzler
Denver, CO

Added more anchor material with purple and green cord and took out some pretty sun bleached webbing. Pretty fun, little route! May 11, 2023