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Rumple Teaser
5.10b,
Sport, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 214
votes
FA: Richard Wright and Anna Brandenburg-Schroeder, 1997.
Colorado
> Golden
> Clear Creek Canyon
> Catslab
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation Bumbling Stock Evil Area Ghost Crag Highlander Skinny Legs Stumbling Block Tetanus Garden Fault Caves
Per the rockfall mitigation project has been completed. Marked as archived / Project Status: Complete on CODOT.
Project Work Resumes Nov. 13 Following Summer Shutdown
On Tuesday, Nov. 13, crews will resume work on this project, starting with rockfall mitigation on US 6 from mile points 260 to 272. Remaining work, anticipated to be completed in April 2019, includes:
scaling rock; removing scaled rock; and installing rock reinforcement, rock anchors, mesh anchors, and 160,000 squat feet of wire mesh.
Access Issue: Open according to a Jeff CO ranger
Details
After months of negotiation, Clear Creek County successfully acquired the 76-acre Oxbow Parcel that contains the Cat Slab cliff. While the cliff line is protected, the area is now officially open to the public. The County is working on developing and implementing a site plan to provide safe, off-road parking, which may include shifting the guard rail and gate to provide more parking as a short-term solution.
Cat Slab was a popular crag before it was closed to the public in 2006 due to liability concerns. The County purchased the land using $725,000 in lottery funds, awarded by Great Outdoors Colorado (GOCO). The County was supported by numerous recreational groups, including the Access Fund, Colorado Mountain Club, Colorado Whitewater, Trout Unlimited, International Mountain Bicycling Association, and Rafting Outfitters on Clear Creek.
Description
This route starts as a piece of cake, with easy 5.7 slab moves, but stiffens as you approach the top. I felt the crux was at the very top of the climb, between the last bolt and the anchors. Just follow the bolts.
Protection
12 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Be sure to use a 60m rope.... it's close to 100' to the ground.
[Hide Comment] Climbed here on saturday 6/16/2003. The coldshut anchors on this route are in desperate need of replacement. One of the anchors is half way worn through by people lowering on the anchors. Learn how to rappel!
Jun 16, 2003
[Hide Comment] We added 5/16" quick links with a single link of 3/8" proof coil chain to all the anchors on Catslab (except Skimbleshanks and Grizabella - they had already been"fixed" and Gus and Rum Tum Tugger..???). That should help alleviate wear problems to the cold shuts. When the 3/8" links wear, just unscrew the quick link and replace the link of chain.
Yes, it would be nice if people didn't use the anchors directly for top roping and lowering.
Jun 18, 2003
[Hide Comment] I had a great time on this route. It gets much harder very quickly - right when the rock turns white. I felt that a lot of the clips were either made from extremely insecure positions, or were slightly out of reach (5' 11", ape index +2).
Important to note that I'm also not the best slab climber out there, so that also contributed. Overall a very fun route though.
Jul 18, 2011
[Hide Comment] I thought this route was 10- as well. There are lots of slab moves and the route is fun. There are not many huge jugs so a new slab climber may find it more challenging.
May 1, 2014
Denver, CO
Silicon Valley/Boulder
Yes, it would be nice if people didn't use the anchors directly for top roping and lowering. Jun 18, 2003
Baltimore, MD
Important to note that I'm also not the best slab climber out there, so that also contributed. Overall a very fun route though. Jul 18, 2011
Black Hawk, CO
Denver