Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Checkerboard Rock

Checkerboard Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal Catch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Icarus T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Non-Alignment T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Number 8 Beartrap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainy Day Woman T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Ziggie's Brother Hank T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ziggie's Day Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Anderson, Smedley, Larson, c. 1990
Page Views: 620 total, 3/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Season raptor closures Details

Description

A good face climb (protected primarily by bolts) in a somewhat questionable position, as it crosses the classic crack line of Ziggie's Day Out. Start just above the large block on the left side of Checkerboard Rock. Climb up to a bolt, using a short crack for pro, clip it and make 5.10 moves to attain the zig-zag crack of Ziggie's Day Out. Place a tcu, and continue up a steep wall past more bolts to a hidden 2-bolt anchor. Many will be comfortable without any gear other than QDs.

Protection

Bring a few small stoppers and TCUs, otherwise about 7 or 8 QDs.
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Climbed this pitch as a warm-up to Ziggie's, it's quite good, but definitely "old school" The first bolt is rusty and spinning (you're hoping it's a 3.5 incher). Then, you launch into a 20 foot runout at 5.10, place a TCU and a nut in the Ziggie's cracks, step up to a good stance and the first of 2 bolts. Climb thru the bolts at 5.10 again (spicy), and reach a good undercling (the first good hold in a while). Fire in a 1.5" cam, and cruise on good holds to the anchors. It's a good precursor to Ziggie's, but you better be in slab shape. May 20, 2006
david goldstein
  5.10b
david goldstein  
  5.10b
I agree with SK that most people are not going to be particularly happy with the rusty bolts on this climb, especially the critical first which protects a 15' runout and whose guts are exposed, nor are they going to feel overprotected even with supplemental gear. Sep 23, 2005
Charles, you underestimated the amount of quickdraws...3 bolts, the 1st is rusted and cratered out gives litte confidence for the runout 5.10 above. Definitely R rated. Gear on Ziggie's and before and after the bolts eems mandatory? Definitely "old school" . Jun 1, 2003
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
I've probably overestimated the amount of QDs needed for this climb...there are only 3 or 4 bolts. Jan 1, 2001