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Routes in Checkerboard Rock

Checkerboard Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal Catch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Icarus T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Non-Alignment T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Number 8 Beartrap T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rainy Day Woman T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Ziggie's Brother Hank T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ziggie's Day Out T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Anderson, Smedley, Larson, c. 1990
Page Views: 641 total · 3/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Season raptor closures Details

Description

A good face climb (protected primarily by bolts) in a somewhat questionable position, as it crosses the classic crack line of Ziggie's Day Out. Start just above the large block on the left side of Checkerboard Rock. Climb up to a bolt, using a short crack for pro, clip it and make 5.10 moves to attain the zig-zag crack of Ziggie's Day Out. Place a tcu, and continue up a steep wall past more bolts to a hidden 2-bolt anchor. Many will be comfortable without any gear other than QDs.

Protection

Bring a few small stoppers and TCUs, otherwise about 7 or 8 QDs.

Photos

Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
 
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
 
I've probably overestimated the amount of QDs needed for this climb...there are only 3 or 4 bolts. Jan 1, 2001
Charles, you underestimated the amount of quickdraws...3 bolts, the 1st is rusted and cratered out gives litte confidence for the runout 5.10 above. Definitely R rated. Gear on Ziggie's and before and after the bolts eems mandatory? Definitely "old school" . Jun 1, 2003
david goldstein
  5.10b
david goldstein  
  5.10b
I agree with SK that most people are not going to be particularly happy with the rusty bolts on this climb, especially the critical first which protects a 15' runout and whose guts are exposed, nor are they going to feel overprotected even with supplemental gear. Sep 23, 2005
SCherry
Boulder, CO
SCherry   Boulder, CO
Climbed this pitch as a warm-up to Ziggie's, it's quite good, but definitely "old school" The first bolt is rusty and spinning (you're hoping it's a 3.5 incher). Then, you launch into a 20 foot runout at 5.10, place a TCU and a nut in the Ziggie's cracks, step up to a good stance and the first of 2 bolts. Climb thru the bolts at 5.10 again (spicy), and reach a good undercling (the first good hold in a while). Fire in a 1.5" cam, and cruise on good holds to the anchors. It's a good precursor to Ziggie's, but you better be in slab shape. May 20, 2006

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