PRINT: Rock Climb Checkerboard Crack, Lumpy Ridge

Checkerboard Crack

5.10b/c, Trad, 2 pitches,

Avg: 2.5 from 17 votes
FA: [S. Kimball & M. Neri, 1976]
Colorado > Estes Park Valley > Lumpy Ridge > Checkerboard Rock

Access Issue: 2024 Partial Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/21/24 Details

From the Denver Post 7/21/24: some of the raptor closures have been lifted, officials announced.

Upper & Lower Twin Owls, Rock One, The Book and access trail, Bookmark, and Left Book were opened based on a park new release.

Closures have been extended for Thunder Buttress, access trail, The Parish, Cathedral Wall.

Closures above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond trail have been extended.

Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)

Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.

Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!

Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:

Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock

Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.

All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.

Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…

When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.

Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.

Description

Like its neighbor, Ziggie's Day Out, this climb requires great skill in placing protection, and it seems like you need TCUs for most of it. Nut placements can be had, but are very tricky. The left side of Checkerboard Rock is broken by a ledge 2/3 of the way up. Two prominent parallel cracks reach it; the left one (which continues beyond the ledge) is Checkerboard Crack. To reach it, lieback a shallow dihedral just right of a large block (thin 5.9-or, traverse in from above the block). Make some face moves to gain the flared crack, and climb it to the ledge (sustained 5.9/5.10). Pitch 2 is short and continues up the crack to the top.

Protection

Bring a double set of TCUs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Patrick enjoying the amazing climbing at the top of pitch one of the Checkerboard Crack.

Starting up the sinker jams on the 2nd pitch of Checkerboard Crack.

Patrick following the Checkerboard Crack via the Rainy Day Woman start.

The delicate corner climbing on the start of Checkerboard Crack. So good!!!

Checkerboard Crack's start.

Looking down Checkerboard Crack (5.10b)from the top of P1. Joseffa Meir is following just before the 'switching cracks' thin section.<br>
(Checkerboard Rock, at Lumpy Ridge)

Looking down Checkerboard Crack (5.10b)from the top of P1. Joseffa Meir is following just before the 'switching cracks' thin section. (Checkerboard Rock, at Lumpy Ridge)

Joseffa Meir following at the crux of Checkerboard Crack (5.10b) on Checkerboard Rock, at Lumpy Ridge.

Mike at the crux.

Working on the gear at the crux.

John Courtney low down on P1.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jason seaver
Estes Park, CO

This route can be done in one pitch. At exactly 60 meters a nice ledge and a bomber diagonal crack appears from which you can belay. From here you can scramble to the summit. Classic Lumpy flared crack. Dec 2, 2001

Luke Clarke
Golden

Agree with the comment on protection. Had to do considerable back cleaning to get the right gear up to the crux (it's the same size you want to place on the first half of P1). A double set of green, blue and black Aliens or Metolius tri-cams in that range would have made life a lot simpler for my partner and I Saturday. Aug 19, 2002

S. Kimball

Pitch 2 is short but do'nt underestimate it. Add an R to that 5.8...once the crack fades the rightward traverse is unprotected. Jun 1, 2003

Mike Carnes

Climbed this 10 yrs ago when I was a [rookie] 5.10 leader and somehow stuck it in a terrified state. Went back to climb it yesterday and pulled two offset nuts out of the flared crux crack when I fell. First time I have ever pulled gear falling and I have fallen on my pro many of time. So to make a long story short have your Lumpy head on, this crack is VERY flaring, and for those of you who have been on this before and wondered, the answer is yes the slab below does hurt when you hit it. Jun 13, 2005

JP.8d
Menlo Park, CA

This route does have a bit of tricky gear. An offset Alien (black/blue) works really well near the crux. Not a good beginner .10 by any means. Good route with some great hand jams even in the flare if you really fish around for them. Cheers... May 25, 2006

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO

5.10c

I went up this thing expecting a crack; when I name routes I either play off of existing route or crag names and also try to be descriptive of the route. Checkerboard Crack is a misleading name.
Since Checkerboard Flare and Checkerboard Seam-In-Leaning-Corner were not taken, I don't know why the route was called Checkerboard Crack (snicker).
Anyway, the climb was fun, but I could have used more medium nuts, which would have protected me a little more. Jun 23, 2006

Armin hammer
Reno, NV

Climbed this route yesterday, and agree pro is tricky, and did not run the pitches together. My buddy whipped at the crux for a 20 foot whipper and pulled out a crappy Wild Country zero cam at the crux. He was pretty shaky when he arrived at the crux. His piece below, a beautiful #9 BD stopper held placed in the crack below and to the right. His fall was nice and he didn't get hurt/injured at all, as he flew past me belaying from the sling/horn. We both agreed that he could have gotten at better piece at the crux, probably a small stopper. My stopper got stuck that he fell onto, I probably could have gotten it out if I had something to hammer my nut tool with. Not the best route for 2 budding 10 leaders, but fun anyhow! Jun 28, 2006

e Dixon
Durango, CO

5.10

Doing this as one long pitch is the way to go. Gear is a little fiddly, but it is there. Kinda insecure, classic Lumpy climbing. Jun 19, 2011

John Tormalehto

5.10-

I climbed this fantastic route today via the Rainy Day Woman start. I would recommend it to anyone who is solid at the grade and appreciates Lumpy. The climbing is heady, and the leaning flare requires finesse, but for the leader who is patient and creative with their gear placements, safe passage can be had. Don't miss this route, it's Classic Lumpy Funk! Nov 12, 2023