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Anarchy Rules

5.12b, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 3 from 106 votes
FA: Alan Nelson, 1990
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Anarchy Wall
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a good, hard route. The moves are sustained and non-positive. Once you start moving, keep climbing and it will eventually get better (at the anchors!!!). Overall, a good challenge.

Protection

5 bolts/ 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Just a clip and a mantle and should be good.
[Hide Photo] Just a clip and a mantle and should be good.
Sam finishing the last mantle, couldn't tell you what's going on but a nice biner to the face is always nice.
[Hide Photo] Sam finishing the last mantle, couldn't tell you what's going on but a nice biner to the face is always nice.
Mid-route on Anarchy Rules.
[Hide Photo] Mid-route on Anarchy Rules.
Sam stickin' the crux.
[Hide Photo] Sam stickin' the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MARSHALL BRITTLE
[Hide Comment] I DISAGREE WITH NATE THAT THE HOLDS ARE NON-POSITIVE, TAKE A BRUSH TO THEM, JUST FIND THE BITE, ITS THERE. Sep 25, 2001
Anonymous Coward
[Hide Comment] Sweet powerful crimps, jugs, and slopers. You've got to believe. Go with the flow and it weighs in around .11d. May 25, 2002
jonah
[Hide Comment] I agree this feels about 11d if you are insecure and downrating climbs makes you feel better about yourself. Jun 1, 2003
Ken Cangi
Eldorado Springs, CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Packs a punch like everything else on this wall. Jul 26, 2005
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I've never had soo much fun on such a short route. Good crimps and mild slopers on a steep face with great movement.... Get ON It. Apr 9, 2009
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] 11d, I call BS. The useless anonymous coward strikes again for the downgrade. Even in ELDO!!! this route would be 12-, in Boulder Canyon 12d. in the Gunks 9+, Red River Gorge 12c. Downgraders be damned!!! Jan 17, 2013
Luke Childers
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Hey now I cut my teeth in the Gunks for 15 years! This things is a 5.8- out there!! Lol Aug 28, 2013
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I had forgotten how fun and beta-intensive this route is. BETA ALERT: for moving above the second bolt, get a very high right foot (the flat incut that you toss left hand to early on) while your hands are still low/on positive holds. Go right hand to sloper - bump into side pull and then MATCH feet and flag right foot out to combat the barn door while going left hand to the flake. Prior to matching feet, I was stumped. Aug 7, 2017
Chris Ham
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Excellent route. Took me several tries (kept falling at the mantel). The opening moves may be the crux for some. Either way, exciting as there's almost no rest until the mantel. If you are a 12b climber, this is a great route to put to the test! Oct 1, 2020
Lane Mathis
Denver, CO
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] This is certainly the most sustained route on the left side of the wall. I stickclipped bolt #2 for confidence. Let me know in the comments below if I'm soft. Thanks! Oct 1, 2020
pfwein Weinberg
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] 4 stars may be a little over the top for a short climb (and I'm prob biased, because this was a tough climb for me, so makes it rewarding to get it), but almost every move is cool and somewhat hard (for the grade of the climb) w/o rests until you're over the ledge, which may be the redpoint crux. The bolt spacing is maybe a little on the scary side, and I didn't want to blow the clips on 2 or 3; you want to have confidence in your belayer, and it helped me to TR first (and I still had 1st preclipped). Oct 19, 2020