Type: Aid
FA: Dale Johnson, Phil Robertson, Bob Sutton, 1953
Page Views: 4,053 total · 17/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

There is really no point at all in climbing this roof unless you are practicing for something more challenging. As a practice aid climb, though, it does its job at introducing one to aiding a horizontal roof.

This climb is up a crack that splits the horizontal roof for maybe twenty feet. The roof is the huge one on the back side of Castle Rock that is pretty hard to miss. The right crack is the easiest and weighs in at a lofty C1 if you decide to clip the three bolts for protection. If you don't, this could be considered C2 depending on whether you prefer new wave or old school ratings. Put it this way, there are no body weight only placements on this pitch, but it sure is mighty awkward. Aliens get you across the roof to the lip, where the crack widens a bit and takes up to #2 Camalots to a 2 bolt anchor. The left hand crack looks quite dicey, but there is a fixed pin halfway up. I'm not sure how good it is.

Protection

Clean aid rack. Cams from black Aliens up through #2 Camalot for the rightmost and easiest line. For the left crack, bring small Aliens, Lowe Balls, LAs, small angles, KBs, and Camalots to #2. Not totally sure about that though, because I haven't done the left crack.

Photos