Access Issue: Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures
Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyons falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This route is a classic face climb on the difficult to protect Bulge Buttress. The line is not obvious from the ground, but it is not too difficult to discern once high on the cliff. The entire climb is easy, but entails many very runout traverses where serious falls could take place. The leader should be confident at the grade and so should the follower, as it is just as dangerous to follow this route as to lead it. Have fun, this route is very unique and I found the most enjoyable part to be finding tons of edges and huecos covering the entire route.
Pitch 1 goes straight up from the bottom of the buttress starting right behind the Whale's Tail. It is runout 5.5 with one fixed pin to a bolted belay.
Pitch 2 traverses right on a horizontal crack under a bulge to the lip. Place your last piece here and run it out all the way back the way you came on a 5.4 ramp. This pitch is about 90 feet but only about 35 feet of elevation are gained.
Pitch 3 traverses right past a bolt and over a bulge before following another easy ramp way back to the left.
Pitch 4 traverses right for about 30 feet until the angle eases off enough to walk off the East Slabs.
Eds. There is a straight up crack-like finish that goes at 5.9.
All belays are hanging w/ double bolts. The route is extremely run out and most of the protection is fixed pins. Bring 6 quickdraws and cams up to a #1 Camalot.
[Hide Photo] Darin Lang surveys the first pitch of The Bulge.
[Hide Photo] Peter Dillon at the end of the traverse to the right on pitch 2. From here, Peter will climb up and angle back left onto a ramp.
[Hide Photo] Peter Dillon getting onto the left-angling ramp on pitch 2. There's a 5.4 step-up move here, then an easy runout to the anchor. This move is more dangerous for the follower, since they would ta…
[Hide Photo] The fourth and final pitch (done the original way).
[Hide Photo] Unknown climbers on P2 belay of the Bulge, 8/27/06.
[Hide Photo] Bruce Theriault coming to the "exiting" mantle on the 1st pitch. Photo by Kevin Currigan on March 31, 2002.
[Hide Photo] Bruce Theriault beginning the second pitch. Photo by Kevin Currigan on March 31, 2002.