5.8,
Trad, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.4 from 29
votes
FA: Bob Culp
Colorado
> Boulder
> Eldorado Mountain
> Mickey Mouse Wall
This is a spectacular line in between the South and Central towers. This climb offers everything from RP-sized crack climbing to an exposed arete to offwidth.
P1. Start on a ledge about 10 feet off the ground. Take the L-facing corner. The crack to the left is
Captain Beyond (10c). Start with the crux, about 10 feet into the climb. Place a No. 2 and/or 3 RP (quite bomber, actually), then stem and smear your way up to a rest. This pitch follows the dihedral system for about 115 feet to an obvious ledge.
P2. For the second pitch, continue up the dihedral, pull a fun lieback bulge, then stay R in the dihedral through an offwidth section. A #4 Camalot could be used here, but it's easy going and a only a short offwidth section. Finish at a tree with some slings at another ledge. This pitch is about 110ft. also.
DESCENT: Option 1: Make a rap back to a ledge with an old sling around a flake and some pitons for an anchor, then make a DOUBLE rope rap down from here. Option 2: If you only have one rope, make 4 single rope raps from stations in between the North and Central towers. (You'll have to traverse around the back side of the Central tower to the West to get there.)
Full stoppers (incl. RPs) Friends from #0.5-#3, and a #4 Camalot (optional). Twin ropes are preferrable. About 10 runners and 3 shoulder slings with biners for these long pitches.
Loveland, CO
Westminster, Colorado
vicenza, IT
Ridgway, CO
over here
Keep heading west while descending over the grass ledge and around the next bulge. Continue around this curve 50 or so feet further, continuing to loose elevation. Right before this turns into a gully, scramble up the slabs heading back into the trees. These slabs will not protect well with gear but there are 'positive' holds at the low point of the slab (or it seemed possible to enter the low point of this gully and ascend that). Follow this gully all the way to the base of the 'mouse ears'.
This will take about 15 minutes.
New rap stations are in place as of today 9/20/14!, thanks to everyone who was out there replacing bolts your crew was amazing!... for this rap station, rapper's right over the block 25 feet below you. From this side, the next station is obvious in the right hand corner of the face. Sep 21, 2014
Boulder, CO
1. Sketchy raps: we chose the double-rope rap option based on comments here that made it seem less sketchy than the traverse to the standard Mickey Mouse Wall raps, but the Culp's Fault anchors were not the most bomber, and one needed tat replacement (my chalkbag belt wasn't enough, had to leave a sling and biner, too). It seems like the traverse option might be better, but I haven't done it.
2. Choss & overgrowth - was afraid of kicking rocks on my belayer or having holds come out more so than most Eldo routes.
3. The P1 crux is pretty heads up, definitely deserves a PG or PG-13. IMO, the RP was not very good. Protected OK with the RP, #0 purple Metolius, and #2 ballnut all backing each other up. Oct 17, 2022