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Routes in The Icon

Buddhist Pest T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Crucifiction TR 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mantra, The S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Monsoon (submitted as Cruxifriction) S,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, TR
FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron, June 1996
Page Views: 981 total, 5/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Dec 31, 2000 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The Icon is easily located if you hike down the west approach trail to Dream Canyon. It looms on your left, about 50' above the creek and is a narrow slab with a steep gully on the right and a line of bolts along the right arete.

Easy climbing (5.6 or so) leads to a high first bolt just above the first crux. Only those with long arms or taller than 5'6" be able to reach this first bolt! (Trust me I'm 5'6".) Do hard moves over the lip with a bad left undercling, then follow the bolts through easier climbing over to the arete. The moves at the fifth bolt are the other crux. This is superb climbing - lots of no hands rest and good footwork required. Lower off about 80 feet.

Protection

A scramble up the gully on the left would reach the anchors for toproping. There are two bolts with rings. The arete is hard to toprope due to swing potential. Bring eight quickdraws.

Per Carl Schaefer: bring 9 protection quickdraws and something for the anchors if you plan to clip the first bolt of Cruxifriction.

Photos

Nick Wilder
The Bubble
  5.11c
Nick Wilder   The Bubble  
  5.11c
I found it fine reaching the first bolt (at 5' 7"), but really struggled at the 5th. That one move is honest 5.11a - which means 5.11d in Boulder Canyon. Aug 6, 2011
Brianna Bemel
Somerville, ma
5.11b/c
Brianna Bemel   Somerville, ma
5.11b/c
It is certainly hard to clip the first bolt for anyone 5'6 or shorter. I brought a 0.5 cam with a runner to throw in on the right before making the first move to the bolt...it would have been very scary otherwise.
Awesome climb! Sustained, slabby, and thoughtful. Aug 29, 2010
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
This route is great. Cool position, fun moves. May 15, 2009
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
Had fun on this, but was rushed due to approaching darkness. Hard move to start and harder move at the arete which I barely stuck. Slabby 5.9 moves to the top keep you focused. Aug 26, 2006
A vexing pitch. If you on-site this w/o advice from below once you realize your first instinct(s) is wrong, you deserve something enjoyable in a dark room. Joe L. Jun 4, 2001
Young Doug - Ha Ha! a lot of calf pumping here! one of the more interesting routes in the area. A route to make you think! what a concept. Jan 1, 2001