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Routes in Water Slabs

Bolted Route Number 3 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolted Route Number 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mary Lynn's Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mes Amis S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, TR, 65 ft
FA: Bob Horan and Werner Braun, 1996
Page Views: 982 total · 5/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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24 Opinions

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Description

This is a great lead for the aspiring 5.9 leader - low angle slab requiring good footwork - smearing and thin edging. It is well-protected with the crux around the 4th bolt.

Protection

Eight well-spaced bolts, this is easily approached for toproping off of the anchors.

Photos

Very nice pitch. Thin footholds; solid 5.9, I thought. Definitely better of the two Waterslab pitches, though Mary Lynn's is well worthwhile since you're there. Joe L. Jun 4, 2001
Don't TR until the anchors are fixed. The block they are in cracked on 6-15-02 and may come down. Someone please fix. Jun 18, 2002
This is a great climb. Thin footholds and not much for hands mark the crux (which i think is around the 4th bolt). The first time I tried this climb I couldn't get passed the crux. The second time I tried it, a week later, I was able to lead it (with 2 falls). I'm 5'6" and I can't really get that great hand hold for you left hand at the crux. I had to do a half-mantle thing, and put my feet up really high, and then go for that left hold... It's a great move.

I thought this was harder than 5.9 compared to it's neighbor, Mary Lynn's Slab, I would rate this at 5.9+ at least. But I'm short and can't really reach that key hold... The first section of Leviathon is rated 5.10a and I thought this was significantly harder than that one. Oct 12, 2002
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I agree with James; the crux traverse is more like 10a than 9: thin handholds and only smears for the feet, with a big reach left to get the bomber hold at the end of the traverse. Jul 19, 2004
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.10a
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.10a
I thought this route was pretty fun. It's good footwork practice and IMHO goes at 10a. Jun 26, 2006
Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Agreed, somewhat of a sandbag. Plenty of bolts, however, makes this one a very safe lead. Jul 13, 2008

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