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Routes in Water Slabs

Bolted Route Number 3 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bolted Route Number 4 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mary Lynn's Slab S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mes Amis S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, TR, 65 ft
FA: Bob Horan and Werner Braun, 1996
Page Views: 953 total, 5/month
Shared By: Kreighton Bieger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

This is a great lead for the aspiring 5.9 leader - low angle slab requiring good footwork - smearing and thin edging. It is well-protected with the crux around the 4th bolt.

Protection

Eight well-spaced bolts, this is easily approached for toproping off of the anchors.

Photos

Dave Pilot
Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Dave Pilot   Boulder, CO
  5.10-
Agreed, somewhat of a sandbag. Plenty of bolts, however, makes this one a very safe lead. Jul 13, 2008
DavidHH
Parker, Colorado
  5.10a
DavidHH   Parker, Colorado
  5.10a
I thought this route was pretty fun. It's good footwork practice and IMHO goes at 10a. Jun 26, 2006
Ron Olsen
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Ron Olsen   Boulder, CO
  5.10a
I agree with James; the crux traverse is more like 10a than 9: thin handholds and only smears for the feet, with a big reach left to get the bomber hold at the end of the traverse. Jul 19, 2004
This is a great climb. Thin footholds and not much for hands mark the crux (which i think is around the 4th bolt). The first time I tried this climb I couldn't get passed the crux. The second time I tried it, a week later, I was able to lead it (with 2 falls). I'm 5'6" and I can't really get that great hand hold for you left hand at the crux. I had to do a half-mantle thing, and put my feet up really high, and then go for that left hold... It's a great move.

I thought this was harder than 5.9 compared to it's neighbor, Mary Lynn's Slab, I would rate this at 5.9+ at least. But I'm short and can't really reach that key hold... The first section of Leviathon is rated 5.10a and I thought this was significantly harder than that one. Oct 12, 2002
Don't TR until the anchors are fixed. The block they are in cracked on 6-15-02 and may come down. Someone please fix. Jun 18, 2002
Very nice pitch. Thin footholds; solid 5.9, I thought. Definitely better of the two Waterslab pitches, though Mary Lynn's is well worthwhile since you're there. Joe L. Jun 4, 2001