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Henry Spies the Line

5.10a, Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 213 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Golden > N Table Mountai… > Table Top Area
Warning Access Issue: Please Obey Speed Limits & Rim Rock Trail Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

Start on the left end of a face, just below a bulge. Clip the first bolt, move up the cracked face and then to the crack. From the ledge, make a committing move up to a nice hand hold before clipping the 5th bolt.

Protection

[6] bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. A #1-1.5 Friend is useful for between the 3rd and 4th bolts, and a #2 Friend is good for protecting just below the 5th.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This route offers an incredible photo op with downtown Denver in the background. Fantastic 5.10 climbing!
[Hide Photo] This route offers an incredible photo op with downtown Denver in the background. Fantastic 5.10 climbing!
The two big blocks labeled 1 and 2 are definitely loose - don't use them!  The one labeled 3 may also have been loose; I can't be certain.  I bailed pretty quickly once they started shifting around.  FWIW, I was standing to the left of them near the white rock that's covered in crap.  I was basically bear-hugging the stack and heel hooking my way up onto it with my right foot on a little ledge toward the bottom of the three when the whole thing pivoted a bit.  Then I freaked out and came down.
[Hide Photo] The two big blocks labeled 1 and 2 are definitely loose - don't use them! The one labeled 3 may also have been loose; I can't be certain. I bailed pretty quickly once they started shifting around…
Henry Spies the Line.  The pumpy crux is moving past the first bolt, and it's a long way to the second bolt.  Another hard move getting to the anchor.
[Hide Photo] Henry Spies the Line. The pumpy crux is moving past the first bolt, and it's a long way to the second bolt. Another hard move getting to the anchor.
Sean goes for the finish.
[Hide Photo] Sean goes for the finish.
Orange - Redrum.<br>
Green - Sleeper.<br>
Blue - Henry Spies the Line.
[Hide Photo] Orange - Redrum. Green - Sleeper. Blue - Henry Spies the Line.
Mark caught in nice lighting near the end of the day.
[Hide Photo] Mark caught in nice lighting near the end of the day.
Peter Dillon in the easier middle section of Henry Spies the Line.
[Hide Photo] Peter Dillon in the easier middle section of Henry Spies the Line.
[Hide Photo] untitled
Martha doing what she does best....
[Hide Photo] Martha doing what she does best....
Beware of the large, loose block to the left of the 5th bolt! Chalked it with an X.
[Hide Photo] Beware of the large, loose block to the left of the 5th bolt! Chalked it with an X.
A good view of the climb.
[Hide Photo] A good view of the climb.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
[Hide Comment] In all due respect to the founder of this web page, Myke K., I must raise objections and warnings about this route. While the climbing is okay, the anchor system and the bolting are not up to par. Bring a steady mind or some trad gear for the middle section of this route. This is fine and not harder than 5.6. However, the anchor was placed on a fully undercut and detached block; stable for now, but for how long? In addition, if you are under 5 ft 10 inches in height, you can add another number to the grade and a poorly protected move to the anchor. The simple solution is to drop the anchor for convenient clipping from the top of ledge that marks the end of any reasonable climbing, about four feet lower than it is. This project is on the docket, and I hope we get done this spring (2001). However, be forewarned before you run up this route. Jan 1, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Richard - agreed. The guy who led this climb, (currently working a 5.13 on redpoint so no slouch), is about 5'10" and stood on that ledge for a good while before we found someone that we could borrow a cam from and send it up. A fall there would be nasty. Jan 1, 2001
[Hide Comment] The observations about the gear are now obsolete. We just climbed it this weekend and were happy to find the top anchors lowered and the scary clip from the upper ledge now an easy reach. While my memory may be faulty, it seems like something was sorted out lower on the route as well. The route is much safer. Jan 14, 2003
David House
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Your memory is right: There was another bolt added to cover the runout on the middle face. Great route, personally, I think the crux is the final move off the ledge to the anchors! Jan 17, 2003
colin tucker
Monticello, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Fun at the start and at the top, but fairly easy climbing in between. We spent the whole morning on the wrong routes (no pictures) and guessed this was a 5.8+, but I think that is because we were on Mrs. Hen earlier, and thought it was a really sandbagged 10c, so I will forego grading this climb. Dec 25, 2008
[Hide Comment] Colin, check out Haas' new color guidebook to Table, it has some great color photos of the area that makes it really easy to get around. Dec 25, 2008
ZackB
Littleton, CO
5.10a
[Hide Comment] Great route. I thought there were two difficult spots, the first being getting a draw into the second bolt and then the thin moves off the ledge to the anchors. Another great option is to setup a top rope on this route and climb the bulge directly just to the left of the second bolt. Fun moves there, but you may not be able to reach the second bolt if doing this on lead. May 11, 2013
Tombo
Boulder
  5.10-
[Hide Comment] Clipping the second bolt becomes part of the crux if you're short. Jan 26, 2014
William Thiry
Las Vegas
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] It seems that some of the older route descriptions offered above are obsolete. The climb begins at the RIGHT side of the face closer to the arete, following the only bolted line on the face. It is certainly not 5.6, but 9+ or 10a. In fact, staying on the bulge just left of the 2nd bolt in more difficult. The 9/10a move is to slap at a jug out on the arete where you work your way up right of the second bolt to the 3rd bolt. From here it's realy nice 5.7/8 climbing until the very top, where the last few moves to the anchors are stout 5.9. Be ready to clip in and hang from the anchors when setting up and taking down as there are no ledges to stand on. This is a very good route. Jan 26, 2015
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] William, the 5.6 comment above by Richard is in reference to the middle section of the route. The description seems fine. Folks climb this and other routes in a multitude of ways. Also, the discussion above leaves an understanding of the history of the route. Jan 27, 2015
Ben Henson
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] I stayed left starting at the ground and felt the first moves up to the second bolt were 5.10-, but if you stay right from the ground, then it makes it significantly easier to get to the first bolt. Between the top bolt and the anchor has a balancy move, but everything in the middle felt like a 5.7. Sep 13, 2015
L Kap
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] I'm 5'7" and thought it was committing on lead but hella fun. At least getting to the first bolt felt safe, unlike many other moderates at NTM. The technical crux for me was probably the first move or two past the 2nd bolt. I took the easier way and went out right toward the arete at the crux. Loved the sequence off the ledge at the top - a thin move up the middle, a great handhold high and right, high right foot pulling up into a kneebar before hitting the top edge, which is nicely positive. Very glad for that last bolt and the lowered anchors. Apr 23, 2017
Prav C
Arvada, CO
 
[Hide Comment] As other commenters mentioned, there are now 6 bolts on this climb, not 5. Felt well-protected without extra gear. Feb 19, 2021
Brooke Snowdon
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Beware of a large, loose block out to the left of the 5th bolt! See the picture for reference. Mar 25, 2022
Kyle O
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] It is 5.10b probably if you go straight up the roof at the second bolt. It is easier for sure if you go right onto the arete at the second bolt. Note that shorter climbers will have to commit to a couple moves at the crux before clipping the second bolt. Be careful. My 6’ partner, however, could clip the second bolt from a lower stance on his tippy toes. Oct 14, 2023