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The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route

5.11a, Sport, TR,  Avg: 2.2 from 124 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Golden > N Table Mountai… > Overhang Area
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Description

The higher you go, the tougher it gets. Some cool hand jams down low and then some balancy moves on small, slopey holds towards the top. Resist the temptation to chicken out and exit off the right side!

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. On p.32 of the Golden Cliffs: Colorado this route is mislabeled as "Natural Fact."

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

[Hide Photo] untitled
Trying not to fly.<br>
Photo: Roth.
[Hide Photo] Trying not to fly. Photo: Roth.
The top moves are tricky.
[Hide Photo] The top moves are tricky.
Chuck Graves approaches the crux. The 11a stays to the left, in the center of the face. The 10d moves up and right, to the arete.
[Hide Photo] Chuck Graves approaches the crux. The 11a stays to the left, in the center of the face. The 10d moves up and right, to the arete.
Eyeing up the crux.
[Hide Photo] Eyeing up the crux.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Ed Jenner - Good climb for those trying to lead .11 - well positioned bolts and an easy bailout option. Tip - use a toe jam to clip the last bolt. Jan 1, 2001
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
[Hide Comment] In Rossiter's guide book, the rendering of this route is mislabelled (7) under the drawing. After dubious pondering from the ground, I made an attempt anyway coming up one clip short of the goal. Feeling this was way burly for a (7) warmup, I bailed to the chimney on the right and scrambled up the last 10' to set a tope rope. My partner was then informed of its true rating and yelled up to me that the climb is 10d/11a. The top rope can also be used for the interesting (7) chimmney/stemming problem to the left. Jul 1, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] Slippery in warm weather. Nov 13, 2008
Andy Riley
Barcelona, ES
 
[Hide Comment] There's a great kneebar with a no hands rest right before the crux. Jan 21, 2012
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
 
[Hide Comment] There really are two radically different routes here. Stay to the right (still out on the face, not in the gully) and it is an unremarkable 5.9 or so. If you stay on the face left and center, it is a quality 5.11a/b. I don't normally give stars to a "contrived" route, but the moves on the face out left are really cool. Body position, strength, technicality - good stuff. Apr 15, 2013
Mark Roth
Boulder
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] All of the bolts were replaced on this during the BCC volunteer day. The hardware for this route was supplied by the ASCA. Oct 14, 2018
Scott Chico
Morrison CO
  5.11a PG13
[Hide Comment] I think there could of been much safer bolt placement at least for the first two. It's a committing move below the first bolt with bad fall potential! Then another long gap between the first and second with more ground potential...after all that it becomes enjoyable. Mar 18, 2020
Federico Gervasio
Buenos Aires, AR
[Hide Comment] I led it. I kept right side. There is NO WAY this is an 11a.... The top left side looked very hard. Nov 22, 2022
Daniel Kaye
Denver, CO
  5.11a/b PG13
[Hide Comment] tldr; would climb again and would bring gear again, too.

Weird that it was rebolted, but the bolting for the first half isn't great... the first bolt is probably too high for a lot of stickclips, and the climbing isn't super secure. The second bolt is also a tad high, and it wouldn't be the cleanest fall. Luckily, there's a cracks that takes #1-#4 in this section, if you want to add supplemental protection.

As for the line, it's pretty easy to stem stray out right a few times, but it is still within a reasonable safe distance of the bolts (and be able to clip them just fine) and make this some sort of 10a maybe, but also, if you try to stay on the bolt line, especially in the upper section, the face climbing is quite nice - albeit a tad reachy at the top. Feb 18, 2023
Lane Mathis
Denver, CO
  5.11+
[Hide Comment] Contrived. Mar 18, 2023