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Leviathan
5.11d,
Sport, 85 ft (26 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.9 from 128
votes
FA: FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. FFA: Steve Sangdahl and John Baldwin
Colorado
> Boulder
> Upper Dream Canyon
> Oceanic Wall
Description
This route starts from the center of Oceanic Wall and climbs 30 feet of 10a terrain before bypassing a two-bolt anchor and ascending left and up on more difficult rock for another 45 feet. The steep section just after the first anchor is especially thoughtful and fun.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor, then 4 more to another 2 bolts.
[Hide Photo] Climber at the two-bolt anchor atop the first pitch of Leviathon. He is doing the climb as one pitch, and is facing the steep crux section just above the anchor.
[Hide Photo] Above the crux on the popular 10a "first pitch".
[Hide Photo] The 10a first pitch on a 38 degree morning in October. Coldest place in Boulder that day?
[Hide Photo] Photo of Brett Tischler taken by Tom Lukas half hanging half way up.
[Hide Comment] Young Doug - This is a nice route, and I found the last thirty feet to be really exciting with small feet and thin holds to clip draws from! Do this one! you won't be dissappointed. Ps..Hey Ox! Whaassuupp!
Jan 1, 2001
[Hide Comment] FA Update: Leviathon was first climbed via TR by R. Rossiter and Gail Effron, 1996. I placed the bolts on this route during the summer of 1997. Steve Sangdahl led it successfully the next day.
Oct 30, 2003
[Hide Comment] The 10a start is one of the nicer bits of moderate sport climbing I have done around Boulder. Kudos to whoever was nice enough to put the extra anchors at the end of this section.
Sep 19, 2004
[Hide Comment] I really enjoyed the route. The seam crux was excellent ... but still, I think it was more like 5.11b, Let's not get carried away with the ratings here. The only place this might get a 12a rating is sport park.
Sep 9, 2005
[Hide Comment] I thought this pitch was pretty sustained. The moves off the belay were a little committing. Pulling the final bulge was strenuous. I really enjoyed this climb.
Aug 28, 2006
[Hide Comment] I went left at the top (not the fork at the low anchors, the upper fork) and found it both tricky and strenuous...clipping the last bolt was very balance-y from the stance I found. I thought it substantially harder than 11b done that way. I didn't try the right-upper fork, but the guide said it was a tad easier...
Aug 5, 2007
[Hide Comment] Though short lived, the crux sequence felt every bit as hard as Sargasso Sea or Creatures from the Black Lagoon. It is thin with a puzzling sequence and is extremely friction dependent.
Jun 29, 2008
[Hide Comment]Leviathan (for those searching on the correct spelling) does have a puzzling cruz and deserves the 11d, in my opinion. The crux moves are nonintuitive and delicate. At the 9th bolt, I stemmed right, then moved up the left foot, and cranked in the seam onto the left foot with a move that started as a pull with the left hand and ended as a downward push in the seam with the right index finger. This was not yet the end, as I was still short of the upper ledge. Another slab move on a small pinch and small footholds helped me gain this.
Aug 26, 2008
[Hide Comment] Thoughtful moves and balancy climbing. Although rated the same. I didn't think it compared in difficulty to Black Lagoon. Black Lagoon felt at least a letter grade or two harder to me. Maybe by just moving left a bit at the bolt for the crux it makes it easier? I found some small finger tip edges and I think ended up standing up on the good flat hold with my right foot and then doing a balancy foot shuffle to clip the next bolt. I remember very little for the hands once your standing on the flat hold.
Sep 10, 2011
[Hide Comment] Neat route. The crux is very thin and discouraging (where are the holds?), but visibility is good and the sequence isn't hard to derive - perhaps being taller helps through the (nearly) no-hands high-steps.
Sep 1, 2012
[Hide Comment] Very delicate climbing from below the bulge/roof through to the final jug. Pretty easy to pop off anywhere throughout that stretch on thin crimps and mostly tiny foot nubbins.
Aug 16, 2021
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