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5.10c, Sport,  Avg: 2.4 from 141 votes
FA: Richard Wright, 1998
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Wall of the '90s
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details


Woop-Woo!! Another really fantastic Clear Creek route. The first eight bolts are smooth slab climbing, with some high 10 / low 11 moves. Then get ready for the real fun - step out of the comfy little corner, and make some balancey moves through two bolts to earn the nice view at the anchors. A highly recommended route.


10 bolts to a 2 bolt (red coldshuts) lowering anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Peter after pulling through the crux.
[Hide Photo] Peter after pulling through the crux.
Dan Lebewitz about to enter the crux.
[Hide Photo] Dan Lebewitz about to enter the crux.
David Glaché scoping out the crux.
[Hide Photo] David Glaché scoping out the crux.
Jake setting a top rope at the anchors of Recovery.
[Hide Photo] Jake setting a top rope at the anchors of Recovery.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Dawson
Grand Junction, CO
[Hide Comment] This route feels about a grade easier than the rating. Maybe 11a if you're generous. Nevertheless, a fun, quality line. Nov 11, 2001
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
[Hide Comment] Agree that it is definitely easier than the rating, but the psychological crux is definitely moving off those good holds right and firing to the top. 10d. Good route. Mar 5, 2002
[Hide Comment] For Clear Creek ratings: 10d. In Eldo this would be a low 10, I'm convinced. Did this route day before yesterday, did King's X in Eldo (10d) today. Even considering the gear differences, the moves on Kings X are almost a full grade harder.

Regardless of rating, this is a fun route with graceful moves at the top. "Thumbs up!" May 11, 2002
Drew Allan
[Hide Comment] I think this route helps define the Reefer Madness grade. As stated above, Recovery is a full number grade easier (i.e. 10c). There is a little trick move mid-height; otherwise, it is easy climbing to the corner. The corner itself is only several moves before reaching a bomber hold just before the anchor ledge. You are well protected here, so the scare factor is minimal. Good, fun climb.

With that being said, RM feels a letter grade or two harder than Recovery. RM moves are trickier and more continuous. I think RM comes in at 10d/11a no matter what your height. To reduce RM to mid-10 in turn reduces Recovery to 10a, which I don't think it is. Aug 3, 2003
[Hide Comment] Harder if you're tall, I get all cruched up after exiting the corner, where the good holds used to move though the crux are down low and awkward. 6'4" here and this feels .11b, while Reefer is like .10+. Oct 13, 2003
Luke Childers
[Hide Comment] No 11c!!!! But a really nice 5.10. It's worth the effort and the stone is quite good. I will revisit for sure. Nov 11, 2009
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
[Hide Comment] Huh? Definitely 10c at most. Fun line, though. Jul 13, 2010
B. Smith
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] Climbed this at the end of the night as a cool down. This route is definitely not an 11c. I think the book rating of 10c is way more accurate. I could see it being called 10d by someone frightened at the crux, but this is not 11a or higher. Jun 10, 2014
Black Hawk, CO
[Hide Comment] Bolts on this are looking a little old like the photos on comments for Hot Stuff.

Might be replacement time.

Very fun climb! Jul 17, 2016