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Deuces Wild

5.10a, Sport, 145 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.4 from 294 votes
FA: Richard Wright, Fall 1997
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > High Wire Crag
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Pitch 1: The route begins hard. The crux is after you clip the first bolt. Continue up past the small roof (fun!) and up to the anchors.

Pitch 2: Climb a slab with positive holds everywhere. Fun and not too hard. A variation can be made at the last clip if you go to the left, making it "10ish." Otherwise it's a great way to finish this climb to the right of the last bolt. 135 feet to the ground.

This route can be one pitch with 18 QDs and two ropes. You MUST have a 60m rope to rappel with just one rope, otherwise bring two 50m ropes.

Protection

Pitch 1: 7 bolts with two anchor bolts for the belay. Pitch 2: 10 bolts with two anchor bolts for the belay.

Location

Addendum: This route is located to the left of Via Comatose Amigo. It is on the middle buttress of rock to the left of the gully between Road Rash Roof & Jackpot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Above the ceiling on P1, about to make the awkward move into the groove.
[Hide Photo] Above the ceiling on P1, about to make the awkward move into the groove.
Sketchy original location of the 4th bolt, only 1.5" from a sharp edge, and the end of the bolt was probably only 1" under the rock surface. The new bolt location is around the corner to the left and won't result in any cross-loading over an edge.
[Hide Photo] Sketchy original location of the 4th bolt, only 1.5" from a sharp edge, and the end of the bolt was probably only 1" under the rock surface. The new bolt location is around the corner to the left a…
Dan makes the easy pull on the huge holds.
[Hide Photo] Dan makes the easy pull on the huge holds.
Dan analyzes the easy overhang.
[Hide Photo] Dan analyzes the easy overhang.
Jimmy at top of route, Justin belaying at midpoint.
[Hide Photo] Jimmy at top of route, Justin belaying at midpoint.
On the crux of the first pitch.
[Hide Photo] On the crux of the first pitch.
Matt charging up DW, Fia guarding base.
[Hide Photo] Matt charging up DW, Fia guarding base.
Approaching the headwall on P2. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
[Hide Photo] Approaching the headwall on P2. Photo by Paul Rezucha.
Finishing up the second pitch.
[Hide Photo] Finishing up the second pitch.
Midway up.
[Hide Photo] Midway up.
Under the roof on the first pitch.  (Photo by Joan Wharton)
[Hide Photo] Under the roof on the first pitch. (Photo by Joan Wharton)
Second pitch of Deuces Wild.
[Hide Photo] Second pitch of Deuces Wild.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Derek Lawrence
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Way Fun Route with cool exposure at the top - but the mid-point belay does not seem to be in line with the natural line of holds. I found myself making way thin moves left to reach the belay. I was able to protect this with a small Friend, but without gear I would have been sketched. I'd recommend doing it as 1 long pitch. Jan 1, 2001
Michael Komarnitsky
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] This first pitch is beautiful I thought, clean strong moves above pro that make you think, but not enough to really screw yourself up. The first three or four moves off the ledge are kind of balancy - a fall here could be quite painful. Jan 1, 2001
[Hide Comment] Just an update on the fixed pins on the roof. There is now only one angle in the roof, which is really not necessary--a yellow alien fits just above. The other pin is lower in the dihedral before the roof and the eyes are smashed halfway closed anyway. Jan 1, 2001
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
[Hide Comment] I tried to climb at Clear Creek yesterday using only the beta from this website (the first time I've ever tried to do that!). This sounded like one of the best routes at High Wire, but unfortunately this description doesn't even give a hint for where the route is! Sep 5, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
[Hide Comment] Charles, Two thoughts. I'll try to get the numbering organized. Also, some of us like to call this sector the Queen City Slab to differentiate it from High Wire proper that is on the other side of the road and hosts, amongst others, the Highwire route. Sep 5, 2001
Bryson Slothower
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Linking the pitches makes for a very enjoyable long lead with 17 bolts.

Mar 29, 2002
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on Sunday - I agree that you should string the pitches together! My climbing partner was dying on that first belay, then I was dying waiting for her to rappel down to me! Also, I'm not sure even a 70m rope would get you to the ground on rappel from the top belay! Tie 2 ropes together or rap to the first belay. Be careful pulling your rope, too - our got stuck on a horn on the way down! Great climbing, though! Bring about 20 draws - it's long! Jun 24, 2002
Jason Carter
Monument, CO
[Hide Comment] The joy of this climb is its length. I've always thought the mid point two bolt anchor was just there as a rap station anyway. Maybe because I've never been able/wanted to climb to the anchor directly as it sits lurking at you from a blank spot on the wall, anyway, it seems way left of the route and low as a mid point belay - even out of reach to clip as you climb past. It's a little run out climbing past it on the right, but I don't think dangerous.

Really nice face climbing to finish - all in all a great route for the grade. Climb it in one, rap it in two. Feb 18, 2003
[Hide Comment] If you don't have enough draws to make it all the way to th top in one. I found the best way to get to those sketchy anchors is to climb up past them and then traverse over on the desent ledge. It's pretty easy but also kinda sketchy. Jul 11, 2003
Michael J Yarros
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Great route. We climbed it as one pitch. Better bring a lot of "Draws" :)

I thought the section right below the top (second anchor) was the hardest part of the 2nd pitch. May 12, 2004
[Hide Comment] Pitch 1 goes at harder than a Clear Creek 10a, at least compared to other climbs of that grade in the Canyon (e.g. Ace in the Hole, Jellicle Cats, MacCavity). I would say the pitch 1 crux is getting to the anchors. To make the anchors you have to traverse left from a good stance across a face with little in the way of hands or feet. The section between the first and second bolt at the start of the pitch is balancy, but at least there are holds, particlarly if you stay left of the bolts. If you are doing both pitches you might want to just skip the first pitch anchor. Mar 6, 2006
jay baichi
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] There is loose block midway on pitch 2. Be careful not to use it as a hold. Mar 9, 2008
Jeff Welch
Denver, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Agree the anchors for P1 are in a fairly silly spot. Moving them 3' to the right would put them more in line with the natural holds, still at a relatively convenient place to belay from, and still line the rope up well. The bolts are looking old anyway... maybe it's time for someone to move them? Aug 31, 2008
Adam Berger
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I've always done this climb as one pitch, and usually traverse over to the mid-point anchors, clip a draw, and keep going. Yesterday I brought a few small cams and placed a 0.5 C4 in the crack to the right of the anchors and kept going up. I traversed over slightly higher up and felt like it was a much more natural line. Just my 2 cents. Oct 30, 2008
Bjorn
WNC
 
[Hide Comment] Considering the heavy star-rating in Darren's book, I thought this route was rather a shitpile. One 10ish move right off the ground followed by a ropelength of blase climbing. Do it as one pitch to minimize time wasted on the affair, or don't do it at all. Via Comatose is much better. May 1, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I'm gonna have to completely disagree with bjorn, I think this is a great route with very good rock. Doing this in one pitch is highly recomended.

As Adam mentioned, you can bring a couple mid-sized cams (or just run it out) and continue straight up the crack, then traverse back left higher up and avoid the pesky mid anchor fiasco.

Yes, the climbing eases greatly in the middle, but the climbing is still of high quality, and one of my favorite moderate long pitches in the canyon.
Cheers Sep 19, 2009
Josh
Golden, CO
[Hide Comment] A loose block below the small roof on P1 is marked. If you avoid it, it makes your final moves to the anchor a fun and balancy step-across. It is out of the way of the rope line, so still relatively safe to climb underneath and past it. Oct 5, 2009
[Hide Comment] It's a fun route, maybe they can't all be Topo Ocean crimp & friction fests, Bjorn, but so what; the last section gives a good set of moderate moves to finish out. Oct 25, 2009
sstrauss
Denver
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] FYI: a 70m will not reach the bottom. You either have to downclimb a few feet or tie 2 or rap twice; worth the time spent though. Mar 21, 2010
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Well, since someone just posted that a 70m won't make it, I figured I will add some more info. I just led it in one pitch, and there is no way to TR it with a 70m and the rope going through the draws, so I belayed from the top. I then rapped the cleaned route. I clipped into the second bolt while undoing the knots in the end and seeing how far it would go down. It almost reached the ground and I could grab a good hand hold and make the last step down. Also, if you extend your rap device with a shoulder length sling, you could make it down on my rope without even having to grab the rock to step down. Of course, not all 70m ropes are really the same length and it was really right on the edge of my rope, so be careful and safe. Mar 28, 2010
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] SHAMELESS SPOILER BETA: The opening moves can be done by grabbing the obvious crimps and humping up and rightward...which it looks like most everyone does, judging by the chalk...but I think that steals the show and comes in at 9 or 9+.

Didn't see the real 10a move until I was up and over it, but start on the same crimpers and do your best Micheal Jordan reach to a seam way left and high. Gorgeous. Apr 26, 2010
Hiro Protagonist
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Did this today, as a 2-pitch route to practice our multi-pitch skills (belay from above, trailing a rope, communication, double rope rap, etc.). P1 anchors are in such an awkward position - my leader chose to go to the bolts above and lower to the anchor (it's a runout on easy terrain). This is partially caused by the marked foothold below the overhang which leads up to the anchor.

Suggest you do the route as one pitch to avoid our situation; the group behind us was doing this. The route itself has a fun variety of climbing (1 star for doing this as a 2-pitch, 3 stars as one pitch). Watch your rope length for doing it at as single pitch (I dunno what you need to go up). We came down to the ground on a double rope rap on a 60m+70m.

Side note - I did have a smallish C4 (0.75) and Friend (1.5) with me, there are places to place it near the P1 anchor if you wish to play around with getting to that anchor or protect the runout. May 21, 2012
ChefMattThaner
Lakewood, co
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Glad to see that everyone agrees the first set of anchors is in a terrible spot. I simply climbed past them and clipped the draw above them. This is a little run out but on fairly easy terrain. Wished I would have brought gear, because looks like a #0.5 Camalot would have been a perfect option to protect that small run out section. Definitely climb it in 1 pitch, and simply rap down to the first anchors and finish from there. Very fun climbing, and IMO the crux is getting from bolt #1 to #2 that requires a nice reach. Oct 13, 2013
[Hide Comment] In October, Dale Haas and I added SS quicklinks and SS rappel rings to the anchor on the first pitch. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Dec 10, 2013
Garrett C
SL, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] The crux for me was clipping the chains. Falling here would be a pretty big whip, but safe. Very uncertain footing using a tiny crimp with your right hand. Climbed it a second time, and it felt easier with this beta. Rest of climb felt 5.9ish. Mar 23, 2015
[Hide Comment] Dale Haas and I replaced the two bolts with cold shut hangers at the top of the second pitch with Powers 5-piece SS bolts and SS Fixe hangers. We added SS quicklinks and SS rap rings. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA -safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support. Sep 24, 2015
[Hide Comment] Dale Haas and I replaced the cold shuts at the first pitch anchor with SS Powers bolts and SS Fixe hangers. We moved the existing SS quicklinks and SS rings to the new bolts.

The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA -safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support! Oct 12, 2015
[Hide Comment] Did it in one pitch and two raps. The crux, which occurs after you clip the first bolt, felt burly for 10a. I used holds left of bolt 1, maybe it's easier out right.

Most fun I've had a 10 in CCC. Love the length and interesting movement. Apr 10, 2016
Chris Ham
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Felt amazing as one pitch, highly recommended. Wanders quite a bit but solid overall. Did it with a 70m and rapped twice, a 60m should work just fine too. 3rd and 4th bolts are spinners, FYI.

I disagree with the cruxes. Maybe because I'm taller, but 1st to 2nd bolt felt okay, what I would expect for a 10a. Definitely stay left of the bolt line for the fun stuff. 1st pitch crux felt like getting to the anchors. It was very, very fun. No need to continue up the gully. Take the committing moves left on the face below the 1st anchors, and smear like your life depended on it. Super exposed, but that makes it even more enjoyable.

There's a second, easier crux towards the top of the second pitch. 3 stars for the sustained 9 and 10 climbing with some breaks on 8 moves. Nov 18, 2017
[Hide Comment] First 4 bolts replaced 11/5/18 with 1/2 x 2.75" stainless Power-Bolts. First 3 bolts replaced in the original holes, and the 4th was moved around left since the original location was super sketchy (VERY close to an edge, could easily have failed by breaking off a small section of rock - see the photo above). The new bolts were funded by your donations to the ASCA, please consider donating!safeclimbing.org. Nov 6, 2018
Rika J.
Colorado
[Hide Comment] There’s a VERY loose and sketchy block right under the second roof (6th or 7th? bolt). It’s big enough to be a serious danger. Ideally, someone could clean this when there aren’t other people below. Meanwhile, please tread carefully! Jun 30, 2019