The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation Bumbling Stock Evil Area Ghost Crag Highlander Skinny Legs Stumbling Block Tetanus Garden Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Description
DO THIS ROUTE because it's definitely one of the best in the canyon! Simply a fantastic route; fun for both the studly 12 ropegunner and the beginner friends you're taking out. It's 85' down from the anchors, so be careful lowering/rapping with a 50m rope.
Protection
10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with lowering chains. Minimal rope drag, so it's a good top-rope once someone's led up to the anchors.
Eds. As of 2016, the 2nd bolt/hanger and anchor bolts were replaced by Erika & Jim Wong. Thanks!
[Hide Photo] Anne Williams leads 5th of July on May 27, 2010.
[Hide Photo] Kay on the start of 5th of July, 06/25/2018.
[Hide Photo] Drew sending 5th of July on January 1st!
[Hide Photo] Pony Up & Poker Face on the face to the left of the bolts. The bolted lines are Stone Cold Moderate, 5th of July, and Ace in the Hole (L=>R).
[Hide Photo] Standing on the ledge after first clip on 5th of July
[Hide Photo] Tyson on belay for Dan (flying up 5th of July).
[Hide Comment] This is one of the best routes of its grade anywhere. You gotta love how the holds keep shrinking until you find that huge pocket, and the start is cool, too!!
Jan 1, 2001
[Hide Comment] Duh-oh! This comment was for "Stone Cold Moderate" which is next to "5th of July." Sorry.
Any-friggin' how, it seemed to me that these two climbs share the same first bolt. After that, 5th of July is a much more interesting ride. The anchors are way back from the top of the wall, which makes verbal communication with your belayer quite difficult. A 50m rope might even get you dropped that last two or three feet as it slips through your belayer's device. That is, if they are walking back to try and see you. Better tie a big knot in the end of that rope thar. Yup.
Aug 3, 2001
[Hide Comment] I have climbed this route multiple times. In Richard's defense, these are not drilled pockets; they are as natural as they come. I know a little about this as a geologist. Can you spell weathering? Boy, Richard would be really hard up if he needed to reduce routes to a 5.9 level.
Sep 6, 2001
[Hide Comment] My second outdoor sport climb, the first being "Stone Cold Moderate". It's a pretty good route. Not a sustained 5.9 climb, but all these routes seem to have that problem. I remember a straightforward jug to get off the ground, followed by 30 feet of steadily narrowing holds, and then the awesome finger-pocket crux! BTW, is this finger pocket real, or an old bolt hole? After the crux, it's 30 easy feet to the anchors.
Oct 10, 2001
[Hide Comment] This is a definite "must do" while visiting High wire. The beginning's not too tricky and adds to the flavor of the route. You'll probably have to wait in line for this route though, so be prepared.
Jun 24, 2002
[Hide Comment] What a great route!! The length is wonderful - one of the longer single pitches on this wall! All beginning leaders should check it out, if they don't get intimidated by the start. It's not that hard, if you stay on the jugs to the left!
Jun 25, 2002
[Hide Comment] First move is a bit bouldery, be safe and clip the first bolt from the rock to the right. This is a fun route with good starting move. Run up it if you're at highwire.
Apr 16, 2004
[Hide Comment] I might call it a 5.8 but it's got good rock w/ solid holds, bolts every 8 ft so it's well protected. Good length. Great beginner for the 5.9 realm for sure.
Apr 3, 2006
[Hide Comment] Very nice route. The jugs for the start are huge, and it's a lot easier than it looks. Use a stout heel-hook to help get over it. And I didn't see any unnatural holds along the route, though I think that's been well-covered by now.
May 15, 2006
[Hide Comment] Loved this route!!! I took my first lead fall on this and broke my ankle...still finished the climb...it was great. After I get my cast off, this is the first one I am going to climb.
Sep 3, 2007
[Hide Comment] Very consistent route. It's not like you get past the crux and the climb is over. I like that. Bottom bolt shared with Stone Cold Moderate.
Sep 1, 2009
[Hide Comment] I thought this climb was fairly stout for 5.9. I'd rate it 5.9+ but I did not see any finger pocket at the crux. Great route that needs some attention given to the anchor. Right bolt needs tightening; might bring a wrench. Thanks to the first ascent folk for putting it up and for taking care of so many climbs!! As for any drilled pockets....I thought it was funny that someone would even think that they might be manufactured. For the most part they are huge! All in all a great route.
Apr 3, 2010
[Hide Comment] Excellent climbing and good falling for the new 9 leader. Made in the Shade is similar and longer at Canal Zone. First move is fun and Tarzan-esque.
Oct 12, 2011
[Hide Comment] In October, Dale Haas and I added quicklinks and rappel rings to the anchor. The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
Dec 10, 2013
[Hide Comment] Great route all around! Fun start leads into really solid face climbing. The crux is pretty long. It spans about 3 bolts on the lower section of the face. When you get to the top, don't forget to turn around and look at the view. It's amazing!
Jun 17, 2014
[Hide Comment] In June 2015, Dale Haas and I upgraded the anchor hardware with SS quicklinks and SS rap rings. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA - safeclimbing.org) provided the hardware. They appreciate your support.
Oct 16, 2015
[Hide Comment] I recommend stick clipping the first bolt. The first couple of moves are pretty exciting, especially if you approach from the right side of the gully. However, I think the start to Stone Cold Moderate just to the left might be a little harder, but the rest of the climb is excellent with some fun pockets and dishes.
Nov 22, 2015
[Hide Comment] Both anchor bolts and the 2nd lead bolt/hanger were replaced by Jim Wong and myself on June 16, 2016. Hardware was provided through an Access Fund/AAC Fixed Anchor Replacement Initiative grant.
Jun 26, 2016
[Hide Comment] Very fun, solid 5.9 climbing. Start is a bit bouldery, maybe a V0 move at the most. Pretty easy to clip, but I can understand why some might want to stick clip. Honestly it's less sketchy than its neighbor Stone Cold Moderate.
Nov 20, 2017
[Hide Comment] What a great route! Clipping the first bolt is tricky (especially if you're short), but the climbing is superb. A great, safe, sustained lead for someone breaking into 5.9. This is the best 5.9 I've climbed in a while.
Apr 12, 2018
[Hide Comment] Fun climb if you don't kill yourself clipping the first bolt. The holds are good but covered in a layer of chalk-slime. Apparently you can "bridge" the gap and clip it without committing to the climbing. It is a bit of a water-groove, the rock is relatively smooth, and a fall would not be fun. Seems like that bolt could have been placed about 8 inches to the right, around the corner.
May 23, 2018
[Hide Comment] Super fun start. After that, you've got really really nice climbing with good rests throughout. Recommend staying on the bolt line.
Oct 28, 2020
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
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Colorado Springs, Colorado
Any-friggin' how, it seemed to me that these two climbs share the same first bolt. After that, 5th of July is a much more interesting ride. The anchors are way back from the top of the wall, which makes verbal communication with your belayer quite difficult. A 50m rope might even get you dropped that last two or three feet as it slips through your belayer's device. That is, if they are walking back to try and see you. Better tie a big knot in the end of that rope thar. Yup. Aug 3, 2001
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